AfghaniDan, Part II

One year later...

2012-01-11T05:10:00.000-07:00

It wasn't this one, I am sure...

It was perfectly bizarre, and ironic, and somehow appropriate, to see and hear a helicopter in the airspace ahead of me as I left the Boulder Vets Center today. There are rarely helos ("choppers" if your service insists on that term) above this town, so rare that it's practically jarring to hear the rotors. It caused me to smile and shake my head, as I'd realized earlier why the dates of January 8 & 10 consciously stood out to me -- they were the dates I left Kabul and Bagram, respectively, one year ago.

Kabul, Jan '11: Conference Room in Winter

Jan '11: Bagram bus stop

Jan '11: Bagram, amidst the haze...

Jan '11: Dawn over Hindu Kush...and barriers

Jan '11: Final departure...for now.

Not that it's the first time I find myself marking the passage of time since a deployment shook me from a completely different life in the U.S. and then returned me half-dazed...but as this latter experience was longer, and somehow more personal, I find that I'm paying more attention to the anniversaries. The blog has definitely languished again, and for that I'm less than pleased with myself. There are the experiences I never caught up to recount, as well as the developments and incidents which continue to unfold, including major shifts in strategy, organization and approach. I'll highlight a couple of those here, and hope still to finally post photos and stories from the archives...and I tremendously appreciate every reader who has encouraged me to keep this active. While my motivations for blogging from Afghanistan were many, that isn't the case for blogging from here. In contrast, it's only the occasional urge to keep it up that motivates me to do exactly that, especially a full year removed.

Jan '11: Last glimpse of Afghan mountains...

Dec '11: Usual glimpse of Rocky Mountains

It gets harder and harder to find news out of Afghanistan, which often is attributed to 'war weariness' -- an excuse I truly doubt when such a small percentage of the U.S. population is even aware that the war trudges on. The news that does emerge usually covers the latest attacks, which tend to occur outside of Kabul, therefore rarely are covered at the site by western media...and therefore lack context as a result. A typical rundown from today follows, with discouraging news from completely different and unconnected regions cobbled together (and a quote from my old colleague Maj. Gen. Azimi)...

10 die as Taliban storm Afghan government building

More relevant to my forecast from last month's post about bitter divisions coming to the surface between Northern Alliance leaders and Karzai supporters is this intriguing development, brought to my attention by my former colleague and NTM-A counterpart Joe Holstead. I find it significant that some of the leaders with whom the United States sided in 2001 now feel so threatened by the concentration of power in Kabul and the government's future direction that they openly warn against the peace process that our Coalition officially supports, something not much heard openly just a year or so ago...

AP Photo/Ferdinand Ostrop

Afghan opposition urges caution in Taliban talks

I hope to have more on-scene accounts of the 'view from the ground' as some good friends are either back in parts of Afghanistan now in various capacities, or on their way. In addition, my cousin should be on the ground there by late Spring, and my younger brother continues to play an unheralded part in the war effort, as he and his soldiers train Jordanian forces to serve in the Coalition. I look upon their deployments with a big brother's concern, but I admit a touch of envy too, as the restlessness rises to not only find relevance again in this pivotal struggle, but to see my Afghan friends again, and to witness firsthand the changes that are sure to come in the next couple of years.

Finally, here's wishing everyone a very belated Sal-e Now Mubarek (Happy New Year)! I joined the Twitter beast at last, and have been forwarding insight, analysis & updates on Afghanistan -- I post much more often when it doesn't keep me up all night. Follow me: @ MayorDelMundo

When does it "end"?

2011-12-19T02:29:00.000-07:00

The last U.S. troops left Iraq on Sunday, or so the narrative goes...as long as you ignore the inconvenient presence of robust special operations forces and almost 10,000 militarized contractors. The occasion brings about a serious moment of reflection, at least for those who turn their eyes from pop culture and holiday hype long enough to notice. The numbers tell the story, from casualties to troop numbers to monetary cost, and the regional and global impact for better or worse will take decades to fully tell. But what I can't get over today is the simple storyline that this war is at an end just because large numbers of U.S. conventional units have crossed back into Kuwait, leaving massive amounts of hardware and infrastructure behind and a precarious political system in place.

I am absolutely not taking away from the achievements of our military, especially those who worked so hard, bled so often, and in too many cases, paid the ultimate price for the relative stability and democracy which now exist...but I am disputing the notion that the Iraq war is now somehow over, just as the Vietnam war wasn't over in 1973 and Afghanistan's (latest) war will not be over in 2014, no matter what transpires between now and then. I take this stance because in our rush to declare history in an instant, we hype bookends when the moment strikes. But the story of this conflict is no more easily surmised now than it was in the dire days of 2004-07, and there is much greater continuity once you extend it back to Saddam Hussein's invasion of Kuwait in 1990 and Desert Shield/Storm. It's worth recognizing, or better yet, celebrating, hundreds of thousands of our military men and women being home rather than in Iraq...but let's not pretend it is the end of a conflict.

Analysts: Questions remain as U.S. troops leave Iraq

The continuity of Afghanistan's war arc stretches much further, if you view it this way: the US/NATO invasion in 2001 was in response to the Taliban government's refusal to turn over al Qaeda leadership; the Taliban came to power as a result of the brutal civil war among Mujahideen factions largely armed by the U.S. and others; the Mujahideen first combined efforts to fight the Soviet Union, who was invited in by Afghanistan's communists...and on and on it goes. What lends relevance to my dry attempt at a history lesson are the factions and the major players, most of whom are aligned now as they were in the Soviet-Afghan war, and whose animosity toward each other far precedes even that chapter. For every instance in which President Karzai cozies up to Pakistan, his rivals from the former Northern Alliance get further skittish about the country's future direction, and the demarcation between the Pashtun regions and the northern/western areas comes further into focus. Unlike in Iraq, stability as we recognize it doesn't have a prayer yet in Afghanistan, no matter what "end" date we have chosen.

Afghanistan bombs kill 58 in Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif

Finally, I feel it's important to acknowledge the passing of one of our era's most courageous and unlikely leaders. From rebellious playwright, to uniter of subjugated people, to gracious leader of a new (then-struggling) state, to advocate for freedom the world over, Vaclav Havel was more than up to the task. The people of Afghanistan, with their own tradition of beautiful poetry, who yearn for a new beginning would do much worse than to look to the likes of him for inspiration...

Vaclav Havel, Czech leader and playwright, dies at 75

Tidbits from The Front

2011-11-18T04:49:00.001-07:00

Northern France, 1917

Although where is "The Front" these days, anyway? I'm glad you asked (didn't you?). It's a topic with which most current military members are familiar, but the general public, not so much.

As far as I can tell, the term was popularized in the American consciousness back in World War I, when trench warfare produced very clearly defined lines of battle. Those obvious front lines and rear areas generally continued through the Korean "police action" (we technically stopped calling them wars then), and progressively got more muddled with each conflict involving the United States. In every case, there has always been at least some action that defied the designated battle lines, but by now it has become gospel that there is no rear area. Soldiers and Marines who are regularly engaged in combat with insurgents in the south and east of Afghanistan may dispute that, with good reason...because regionally, there still often are. But this year's spate of attacks in Kabul, Herat, Mazar-e-Sharif and elsewhere demonstrate that in a counterinsurgency, lines are rendered largely meaningless.

I find it difficult to get this point across to civilians who routinely ask, "Were you on the front lines?" or absolve me of such danger with, "At least you weren't at the front." Believe me, I'm grateful that I wasn't on patrol in Sangin...but that doesn't mean that my risks were nil while a fobbit at Camp Leatherneck or especially Kandahar Air Field was in mortal danger. Some who reside at Camp Eggers or the embassy are routinely out and about with officials (both Afghan and Coalition) whom the enemy consider to be high-value targets. The Front is all relative. And in the case of my headline today, it simply means Afghanistan.

Somewhat refuting my case, as I mentioned already, is the experience of those troops in the hot zones of the country, since physical lines of battle do still exist in places. Here is an example of one in Kunar province, where I participated in operations five years ago and where our footprint (and unfortunately, that of the Afghan National Army) is now much-reduced...

It is a part of Afghanistan so isolated that when the Second Battalion, 27th Infantry arrived here from Hawaii in April, villagers thought they were Russian soldiers. The road serves as the region’s unofficial border with Pakistan: from its eastern side the Taliban influence politics in local villages and use mountain footpaths to bring weapons in from the wild tribal areas. American and Afghan security forces operate largely from the west.

I can't find if I wrote about it on this blog back then, but some Marines from 1/3 (ironically, also stationed in Hawaii) encountered the same confused reaction when we sat with village elders during Operation Mountain Lion in 2006. We found it incredulous then that so little was known about the world beyond the Pech Valley, especially of what had taken place in Afghanistan...I suppose it's even more incredulous now.

A Mission’s Troubles Offer Window on an Unsteady Region in Afghanistan

Still, the training continues by the men and women of our armed forces and those of a couple dozen allies, in the hope that Afghan security forces can take the lead in providing national security. Below is one encouraging story for those who believe change is possible even in the most stubborn places. The bravery of these women who join Afghanistan's security forces never fails to amaze me.

“Day to day, for women in Afghanistan, Taliban are a big threat to them. I don’t care about the Taliban. My God is with me.”

Female Cadets Signal Slow Change in Afghan Police Force

Now, a two-parter to follow that left me shaking my head...

One thing many service members can agree on, whether they risk life and limb daily in remote combat outposts or rarely leave built-up bases, is that the regular presence of a friendly dog or cat can boost morale tremendously. It's even more crucial for the former, since the canines "adopted" by troops often detect deadly danger out of service to their masters, and the felines control rodent populations of inviting FOBs. Even in Kabul, regularly feeding my Casper and her brother gave me something to look forward to each day, as I often wrote...and leaving them was bittersweet, especially just as she had given birth to a litter. This scene described is absolutely heartwarming, bringing me back to that bond and giving me even greater respect for the true dogs of war who willingly sacrifice their safety for the warriors who take them in.

Afghanistan dogs joyfully reunite with US military members at JFK airport

The irony here is that only a few days ago, our Department of Defense (through the Army and the Marine Corps) made it even more official that no contact with animals is permitted over there, due to the death of a U.S. Army soldier who'd earlier contracted rabies. The policy was already in place; it was just loosely enforced in many spots due to the aforementioned tradeoffs of keeping pets. My feeling is that while his death was tragic, it was avoidable, and the knee-jerk reaction will cause more harm than good...these dogs obviously provide desperately needed love and support to their adopters. Just get freakin' tested and re-tested if you get bitten or suspect any other transmitted illness...a little leadership can enforce that.

Rabies death leads DoD to crack down on pets

Finally, there's this item. I'd caution against interpreting it as anything more than it is (and surveys are notoriously unreliable especially in Afghanistan), but it represents hope -- maybe significant hope -- that the people will resist a return to Taliban rule in the future...

A survey released Tuesday by the San Francisco-based Asia Foundation and funded in part by the U.S. government found that 82 percent of Afghan adults back reconciliation and reintegration efforts with insurgent groups. However, it said that the number of people who said they sympathized with the aims of Taliban had dropped to 29 percent compared with 40 percent last year and 56 percent in 2009.

AP photo / Musadeq Sadeq, via Time.com

Afghan elders worry U.S. may leave too soon

Once again, incidentally, the only noteworthy coverage of the traditional Loya Jirga currently taking place in Kabul is of the failed rocket attack two days ago. FAILED being the operative word there. One errantly struck a market a half-mile away, wounding one, and the other was even farther from the mark. While news is news, wouldn't it be more responsible of the press to report half as stridently on what's taking place inside the tent, and maybe of the strategic context in which it's taking place?

Another Setback

2011-09-22T03:31:00.002-06:00

Because this assassination is too significant to ignore, even if I have no information or insight that can't be gleaned from news accounts...

Turban bomb kills key Afghan political leader

The headline (for once) understates the weight of what happened in Kabul two days ago. Burhanuddin Rabbani was tabbed last year by President Karzai to chair the Afghan peace council, the vehicle by which the powers that be hope the government can persuade at least most of the insurgency to negotiate a peace. He was seen as the only logical choice, a past national leader (Afghanistan's president from 1992 to '96) who carried weight with both the Northern Alliance factions and the Pashtuns. Although he presided over the most tragic of modern Afghan eras -- the brutal civil war which destroyed Kabul and paved the way for the Taliban's takeover -- he had emerged from the war against the Soviet Union as a Mujahiddin leader from the north and a skilled power broker.

Kabul, 1993 - Filmmaker Richard Mackenzie with Pres. Rabbani.

Richard, a good friend, kindly shared this from his archives.

Rabbani was killed in much the same way that his one-time chief Ahmad Shah Massoud was, ten years ago this month...by politely receiving guests. In Massoud's case it was phony journalists, and in Rabbani's it was phony peace envoys, but in each instance the bombers deceived hosts about their intentions and waited for days to get close to their respective targets. The attackers exploited ancient customs of hospitality to ambush great men who posed a threat to their unpopular but brutal organizations of terror. In Massoud's time it was a camera casing the bomb, in Rabbani's it was a turban -- a symbol of piety. But as we have seen time and time again, there is no pious respect from those who kill in the name of a twisted version of faith to which they wish to subject their country.

Incidentally, yesterday was the UN's designated International Day of Peace...a day I found so hopeful last year when I had the chance to commemorate it with hundreds of Afghan schoolchildren. I hope that this most recent setback to peace in that land doesn't turn out to be as significant as it now seems.

Ten Years

2011-09-09T15:38:00.000-06:00

Yesterday's date stood out to me. Not as obvious as the unforgettable 9/11/01, it was still a memorable night in that bygone era preceding the terror.

I lived in Hoboken, NJ, at the time, and went with my cousin and a friend to see a great blues-rock band at the old Wetlands Theater in NYC. We stopped by my sister Meg's bachelorette party first, to say hello to three of my sisters and her friends (which rewarded me with the hilarious sight of two of them in glittered cowboy hats, incidentally). I'll absolutely never forget looking at the World Trade Center's twin towers when we left that show much later, sometime after midnight -- they always served as my directional marker downtown, and would tell me which way the PATH station was. But that night, I swear I took a longer look...it was a clear night and the lights of the sky-high buildings looked strangely beautiful. It turned out to be the last time I saw them from lower Manhattan.

That sight, frozen in time, was vividly on my mind when I realized it was Sept. 8th...and I'm just glad to this day that none of my family or friends were there for any reason on the 11th. I feel for everyone who did lose loved ones in the attacks that day -- not only in New York, but in DC and in Pennsylvania -- and for all who've suffered losses to terrorism and war since then.

The attacks on 9/11 would initially lead to my quest to join the Fire Department of New York, which I pursued for a couple of years while working other jobs, and eventually my return to a Marine uniform and two deployments to Afghanistan. In so many ways did those audacious strikes affect my reality -- and that of countless millions around the world -- but it's often hard for me to draw a direct connection between that marred morning and my subsequent experiences.

What could have been, for me...

As a result, many of us who served there read countless analyses of what's gone right, what's gone wrong, and what can still be 'fixed.' Linked below is an insightful article on Afghanistan's last decade, with perspectives from a variety of Afghans on what it has meant. In particular, I was struck by the comments by Dr. Mahyuddin Mehdi, an MP from the north, on why the Karzai government has failed...

I think the wrong system was put in place here. I have always had issue with this centralised system because it gives the authority to one person, which then translates to the authority of one tribe. Karzai, for example, did not emerge based on his merits, but rather through the recommendation of one tribe. Centralised power is problematic. Authority needs to be distributed, shared. There needs to be a prime minister that is accountable to the parliament.

He continues with a prediction that should give serious pause to those who believe we could exit now without a total collapse on our hands...

But if the international forces leave today, I think all this will falter within a week. Nothing has been institutionalised. People lack trust in these structures, because governments actions have made them question everything from elections to the parliament. Our security forces are not strong enough to cope with the enemy at a time when the threat remains the same threat of ten years ago. The situation is not much different from when the Soviets were about to withdraw. A similar vacuum would be left.

A crafty politician & tribal chief, not a savior.

Each story contained is worth reading, again -- for awareness, if nothing else. Sahera Sharif, an MP from Khost, points out the crumbling security in that region between the major elections, something that certainly rings true based on every indicator. The others present contrasting views on whether life in Afghanistan is better or worse compared to a decade ago, and where things are headed...

The 9/11 decade: Afghanistan's new beginning?

My friend and counterpart from Kabul -- who also showed me the ropes when I arrived, along with John -- forwarded that. Joe also made a salient point about the outlook ahead. We spoke often within the team about Afghanistan's prospects for becoming like South Korea if a steady U.S. and international presence remained in place, due to how similar a fractured, impoverished and war-weary Korea appeared in the 1950's and 60's, and he just returned from an exercise there...

It struck me as capturing most of the reactions and attitudes I've seen or heard over the past years about Afghanistan and US involvement there. It could be useful as a primer for communicators heading to or in Afghanistan as well. I do believe that, if we had the resources and will to stay in Afghanistan for the next 60 years (which we do not), Kabul would be closer to what Seoul is today than Karachi. But, that reminds me that in reality the experts instead state that in 30 years Afghanistan may at best be like Pakistan today (e.g., a JFK school scholar wrote back in 2009, I believe). Anyway, Afghanistan brought many excellent experiences amidst the tragedy that brought us all there in the first place this time around, 9/11.

Joe & I...because you all miss the 'stache dearly!

What we heartily agree on is what an honor and a privilege it was to work with each other and each member of our Public Affairs Development Team, as it was to work with countless service members and colleagues, both Coalition and Afghan. It was likewise an honor to serve with most of the soldiers and Marines I got to know in eastern Afghanistan in 2006...many of whom have also returned on additional tours, and/or served in Iraq since then.

Here's hoping that the next decade brings a measure of peace, with continued vigilance...and in fact a great stride toward both goals would be vastly increased global familiarity and awareness. Perhaps that should be my next area of focus?

...or you never really leave?

2011-08-31T23:49:00.006-06:00

Afghan children wave to U.S. Marines in the Gereshk Valley in Helmand province, southern Afghanistan, Sunday, Aug. 28, 2011. (AP Photo/Brennan Linsley)

Because that's how it feels sometimes. It seems that every single newsworthy development there, or new report on some angle of it, or anecdote from those still fighting the fight, captures my attention like nothing else. It's all mandatory reading, even if I'm not operating in any capacity to do anything with the information -- both new and old. Here is the big news dominating the past few days...well, not exactly dominating, since Afghan news only does when an aircraft crash occurs.

The 66 U.S. service members killed this month eclipses the previous record of 65 killed in July 2010, according to an Associated Press tally. Nearly half the August deaths occurred when insurgents shot down a Chinook helicopter Aug. 6, killing 30 American troops, mostly elite Navy SEALs.

I remember well the almost breathless reporting just over a year ago when that month took the "record" (what a macabre use of the word). It's an obviously misleading number anyway if it's being used to mark success or failure, which it usually is, due to the number killed in that fateful Chinook. What the story could mention is that American casualties are still actually down from this point in 2010, despite the aggressive operations against the insurgency in Helmand, Kandahar and other restive provinces.

A U.S. Marine Scout-Sniper aims his rifle during an exchange of fire with Taliban militants, in Helmand province, southern Afghanistan, Sunday, Aug. 28, 2011. (AP Photo/Brennan Linsley)

Kudos to the AP, on the other hand, for including a mention of other casualties in the NATO-led coalition...something that usually goes unreported in U.S. media.

Besides the 66 Americans killed so far this month, the NATO coalition suffered the loss of 14 other troops: two British, four French, one New Zealander, one Australian, one Polish and five others whose nationalities have not yet been disclosed.

So far this year, 403 international service members, including at least 299 Americans, have been killed in Afghanistan.

This month America's deadliest in long Afghan war

Calcium Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer, used in an IED

Another story which caught my attention centers on ammonium nitrate, a serious and significant issue...which therefore tends to garner few stories. It was a major focus of the Afghan-Pakistani-Coalition meeting I attended late last year, and which take place regularly. I recall much talk about what is being done and what should be done, which I suppose is how these affairs tend to go...but from the sound of it, that's all it was...talk. In the meantime, the material is used constantly in deadly bombs.

Such bombs, typically buried and detonated remotely or by pressure plates, have killed more than 719 Americans and wounded more than 7,440 since the conflict began in 2001, along with thousands of Afghan troops and civilians. Last year's U.S. death toll — 252 — was as high as the two previous years combined, and 2011 is shaping up to be just as bloody.

Speaking of that particular tripartite meeting, my former colleague Gen. Azimi is quoted, voicing again the frustration that Afghan officials feel over the issue.

On Aug. 17, authorities in Afghanistan's Helmand province said they seized 200 sacks of ammonium nitrate that had been smuggled from Pakistan. Photos of the sacks, which had been partially buried, showed they were made by Pakarab.

"All of this chemical is coming from the south and the east," said Mohammad Zahir Azimi, a spokesman for the Afghan Defense Ministry. "We want Pakistan to control it."

AP IMPACT: Pakistani fertilizer fuels Afghan bombs

If all of this news on the human cost isn't depressing enough, there is the other cost to consider. The Commission on Wartime Contracting released its much-anticipated report on waste and fraud throughout the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. While I suspect it was more prevalent in Iraq due to its scope, I have pointed out before that one never has to look very far to see money being burned...

Panel tallies massive waste and fraud in wartime U.S. contracts

Joint Sustainment Academy Southwest, Camp Leatherneck, Helmand province, Aug. 23

(photo courtesy of NTM-A)

Alright, so it looks as if I lack an optimistic view this evening (aka late night)...but it's hard to locate optimism from this distance. Fortunately there is, as always, progress in the training mission. This is the effort on which it all hinges, according to our leadership -- the professionalization of Afghanistan's security forces. If anyone can do it, it's our many trainers: Air Force personnel working with the fledgling Afghan force at airbases, US Soldiers conducting joint patrols in Kandahar, German police officers relentlessly training recruits in the north, Marines imparting tactics to special new police response units in Helmand province, to name a few...

Marines and the ANP – Special Tactics Mission Training

I'm willing to bet that some of the Jarheads conducting that training are activated Reservists, as are many of the individual Marines who augment our joint commands in Afghanistan, Iraq, North Africa and elsewhere. That came to mind as our component, Marine Forces Reserve, was designated 95 years ago this week, in time to immediately boost its numbers to help turn the tide of World War I in France. The size has fluctuated ever since, but it remains vital to the Corps and to the nation's needs.

Although it's a very productive charity, and great visibility for the Marine Reserve, we do a heck of a lot more than take charge of Toys for Tots each holiday season. Never more was this proven than during World War II, as this stunning statistic demonstrates...

Of the nearly 600,000 Marines called to serve [in WWII], approximately 70% were reserves. And of the 82 Marine Medals of Honor bestowed during the war, 44 went to reservists.

From the annals of USMC history came this series of facts about Reserve involvement in the Korean War, in which their rapid mobilization made an enormous impact...

In 1950, the Korean War saw the Marine Corps expand from 75,000 regulars to a peak strength of 261,000 Marines, most of whom were reservists. Complete mobilization of the organized ground Reserve had been accomplished in just 53 days, from July 20 to Sept. 11, 1950. Of the Marines participating in the Inchon invasion, 17 percent were reservists. By June 1951, the proportion of reservists in Marine Corps units in Korea had increased to nearly 50 percent, and during the war, 48 percent of all 1st Marine Aircraft Wing combat sorties were flown by Marine reservists. Between July 1950 and June 1953, about 122,000 reservists, both recruits and veterans, saw active duty with the Marine Corps.

Marine Forces Reserve Celebrates 95th Birthday

Happy birthday to all of my brethren and citizen-warriors, both now and those who've gone before. Semper Fi!

The pull to return...

2011-08-27T17:34:00.001-06:00

Kabul, Jan '11: A few of the locals

A Returning Soldier Answers the Inevitable Question: ‘Why?’

// When someone asks, I realize that I have about 30 seconds to condense years of frustration, painful memories, self-justifications, introspection, conversations with comrades, insecurity, guilt, resentment and humble prayers into an answer that is honest and accessible. Because the moment I open my mouth, interest and comfort begin to wane. //

No, it's not me...this time. The post is written by Jonathan Raab, a soldier with the New York National Guard. But it's an excellent summation of the motivations behind deploying again back to a place like Afghanistan. In particular, I think most of us can relate to the isolation that often accompanies being back in the States, whether in conversation with friends or strangers, or just in that "petty" or "self-absorbed" culture which seems to dominate our daily lives far too often. When it's already tough to feel that you've left the most meaningful work you could be doing, it eats at you.

This line, one that I was asked repeatedly when preparing to return there, is one that I now ask a friend who's about to return for a very long stretch of time. While we've spoken so much that I already know the answers, I still am blown away by the willingness to fork over the next three years of one's life to a cause that, despite the best efforts of literally hundreds of thousands, is on shaky legs.

// Why would any sane person want to return to risk life and limb in a war that has no clear objective and faltering popular support? //

There is no easy answer. But we go anyway. And guys like Dave agree to go for years...and dedicated friends such as John and Pam have already logged years there. And our Afghan advisors, without whom we'd be utterly lost, risk their lives to help us. Truly an incredible bunch, all of them.

So what's the latest on the mission? The item below is based on an interview just last week with the commanding general of NATO Training Mission Afghanistan, Lt. Gen. Caldwell...the man responsible for standing up, training and equipping Afghan security forces. My thoughts on a few excerpts follow, because I can't help myself.

Afghan forces need help post-pullout: commander

Lieutenant-General William Caldwell indicated that several thousand international trainers could be needed to support the mission until at least 2020 in an interview with AFP.

"I'm very confident that the Afghans can in fact take the lead for security by December 2014 -- there's no question they can do it," Caldwell said.

- I'm heartened to see the honesty about what the Afghan government needs from us, at a bare minimum, beginning to emerge. And I would still take any bet against our involvement being done by the end of 2020. As for the all-important "take the lead" by 2014, well...expect some continued gymnastic semantics in order to demonstrate that a true transfer of security control takes place by then.

Some diplomats and Western officials in Kabul suggest it could be up to 10 years before the Afghan government can afford to fund its own security forces.

He put the figure for this at "maybe 3,000 people, uniform-type people, police and army" plus financial support to help the Afghan government pay for the security forces, possibly for another six years.

- These are still incredibly optimistic -- probably completely unrealistic -- estimations, in my opinion. And that of anyone familiar with economics and/or the state of Afghanistan in 2011. But it's the nature of the beast, I suppose...only in increments does a venture of this scale continue apace.

Photo by Petty Officer 2nd Class Ernesto Hernandez-Fonte

_____________________________________________________

Finally, I've got to pass another blog shout-out to my Army brother Steve in Kuwait (at the moment...I think...they bounce around) on the occasion of his birthday this week. He sent a recap of his platoon's recent partnership training in Kazakhstan, which I took the liberty of sharing below. This type of cross-cultural combined multinational training happens a lot more than most Americans realize, but few & far between are those who've carried it out in the world's largest landlocked country!

Ah jaqse, brother (he tells me that essentially means, "it's all good")...

2LT Steve with Kazakh colleague Serj, Aug 2011

KAZAKHSTAN TRAINING EXERICISE UPDATE

2^nd Platoon recently received the opportunity to travel to Kazakhstan to take part in the multi-national tactical exercise Steppe Eagle, now in its 9^th year. As the Kazakhstan Government celebrates its 20^th year of independence, they held their most populous exercise to date, hosting troops from Great Britain, Lithuania, Kyrgyzstan and the United States to help their bid for certification into NATO. Our platoon arrived in the former capital city of Almaty on August 1^st, and fell under the oversight of Army Central Command (ARCENT) who controlled all the logistics of the American ground troops, including a National Guard infantry company from Colorado with whom we shared our living space.

During the first week on ground, 2^nd Platoon spent time getting adjusted to new surroundings and temperatures (much cooler than Kuwait!), refining our tactics in preparation for the start of training, and getting to know some of the local Soldiers and cadets that occupied the compound with us. The Opening Ceremony for the training was held on August 8^th and included a dazzling concert displaying various cultures of the local people, demonstrating their musical and artistic talents. The following day, our platoon received AK assault rifles with which to go through situational tactical exercises, which we did for three days before beginning the field training portion of the exercise (FTX). The AKs were definitely different (and much louder) than the weapons we are used to firing, but working with them was a unique experience for most every Soldier. During the 3-day FTX, we trained around the clock executing both day and night operations which included guard tower security, vehicle check point, quick reaction force, and patrols every other hour.

We also got the chance to wear some civilian clothes and get to travel outside the training area on Culture Day. Starting on the morning of August 13^th, we rode a bus to Almaty to see the War Memorial; then rode up to the scenic overlook site of Koktobe for lunch; and after visiting the vast marketplace in the city, we had a buffet-style Kazakh dinner and even got to enjoy a couple alcoholic beverages if we so chose too. In addition, right before the Closing Ceremony on the 18^th, we enjoyed another “fun day” as the Soldiers broke down into teams and competed in Sports Day against the Kazakhs in soccer, volleyball, track, and tug-of-war among other events.

Unfortunately we did have multiple cases of a virus-like sickness arise among the Platoon, and overall would have liked a bit more side-by-side interaction with the Kazakh Soldiers (both points were brought to higher command’s attention post-exercise). But we were all thankful for clean latrines, good food (with a lot of help of two of our Platoon’s 92G personnel “cooks”), ample internet access, and the overall experience gained from taking part in such a multilateral exercise. This is definitely something all of 2^nd Platoon’s Soldiers will enjoy telling their grandchildren all about some day.

Thank you,

2LT Stephen Huvane

Shadows

2011-07-22T01:22:00.000-06:00

July '11: Never far from Afghan-looking rocks in Boulder

I mulled over this post's name for awhile, trying in vain to arrive at a title/theme that described in some way both Afghanistan's current state and my own. In the land that time forgot, the situation is ever-changing, while my post-deployment life is still stagnant in a professional sense. Working for peace and stability in Kabul was purposeful and in the national and international interest, but the idea of replicating that significance in anything stateside is something I find exceedingly difficult, to say the least. I stubbornly want to live in my (still recently) adopted home of Colorado, but haven't made progress towards reconciling those desires of what I personally consider satisfying employment and ideal environment. Perhaps the shadow of impact and interaction in Afghanistan does stalk me again, as it did for much of the time between 2006 and 2010.

Karzai's "surrogate father," Jan Mohammad Khan

In Afghanistan's power circles, it must be President Karzai and his senior allies sensing the shadows creeping closer. Closely following the assassination of his brother in Kandahar came the killing this week in Kabul of his longtime mentor and power broker in Uruzgan province, Jan Mohammad Khan. While the headline and premise of the story below may at least border on the sensational, it does seem that Karzai is becoming further isolated all the time...a trend that has tended to result in his reaching out to Pakistan and even "soft" Taliban with increasing frequency. You don't achieve lofty positions without making enemies, and in Afghanistan it is a particularly lethal wrath you often sow...for the cagiest, the name of the game is survival. As for its impact on the national psyche (and by extension, our goals there), I can't say it any better than my friend and former director Dave did:

Another old-timer killed. Conventional wisdom is that the Taliban will lay low until the completion of the American withdrawal. I disagree. The next 18 months will be far more violent than the last. Tighter rules of engagement will reduce American losses, meaning that the violence will be off most American's radar, but Afghan civilians, soldiers, and police will suffer greatly.

Afghanistan government under threat after second assassination in a week

LtCol Qahar addresses regional police PAOs in Balkh province

(Qahar is an old friend of mine from the Defense Ministry)

All over Afghanistan there still remain stories of progress among the security forces: new achievements and strengthening capabilities all the time. The great question, of course and as always, is how much time is needed...and how much we as a Coalition are willing to spare. I was pleased to read this week about a milestone in the north, which you can read about below. Particularly meaningful to me was the role of LtCol Abdul Qahar, in uniform in the photo above, since I recall the day he learned he was to be designated the new Public Affairs Officer for the Afghan National Army's 209th Corps, located in Mazar-e-Sharif. Wishing him, his soldiers, and the advisors/mentors who work with them daily, the very best as the transition train rolls on.

“We need to send one message to all Afghan people,” said Qahar, through an interpreter. “We need to show people our joint effort in the transition [of the country’s security to the ANSF].”

ANA hosts first northern public affairs conference

One aspect of our Afghan effort that never fails to amaze me is the quality of individuals we have in so many crucial roles. Attached below is a story that highlights the kind of extraordinary service member who exemplifies sacrifice and dedication. From a tenured position as a Long Island high school teacher to a Navy corpsman taking care of Marines in volatile Helmand province, Darryl St. George's story is one worth reading (for more, you can click on the 'Morning Edition' audio clip at the top of the web page). Jarheads find reasons every day to appreciate the "docs" in their midst who provide care...and St. George is clearly one who returns that appreciation for the trigger pullers.

"I couldn't think of being with a better group of guys than these Marines. They've got more heart than anybody I've ever met," he says.

NPR: A Teacher Leaves The Classroom For Afghanistan

On a lighter note, I enjoyed this item sent to me by a friend in Kabul, and thought it worth sharing. Some of these points I've covered before or at least touched on (particularly those referring to food and culture, of course -- and the only proper use of "Afghani"), but it's an interesting and informative look at some of the distinctions that many Afghans eagerly point out, should you have the opportunity to gain their friendship and conversation. Until next time, then...

BBC: Ten facts you may not know about Afghanistan

The Other Karzai

2011-07-13T03:41:00.001-06:00

Elders meet with Ahmed Wali Karzai in Kandahar, 2009

(photo via the New York Times)

Despite the relative lick of attention it received in the United States, the assassination of Ahmed Wali Karzai in Kandahar yesterday was an extremely significant development in Afghanistan. By all accounts, Karzai was essentially the uncrowned King of Kandahar, head of the provincial council and known as "Mr. Fix It." He seemed to have his hands in everything that took place in southern Afghanistan -- much of the crucial 'Pashtun belt' -- and was alleged by many to be profiting handsomely from the drug trade as well as other lucrative illegal enterprises. Technically a staunch ally of the NATO-led Coalition, his forces nonetheless served his best interests, it was often said. Most importantly, he delivered whatever his brother (President Karzai) needed in Kandahar, and the head of state reciprocated by allegedly protecting him and his businesses.

The problem, of course, is "What now?" As I wrote in a quick note when posting the link to Facebook, it is often said that nature abhors a vacuum. Those who seek to reach their goals through fomenting instability and violence, however, love one. And this killing will almost certainly create a power struggle or struggles as various families, tribes, gangs and consortiums fight for the pieces of AWK's empire. It's not going to be pretty. I remember hearing what a problem it presented to have the president's own brother profiting from all he did and essentially running the south with impunity...but I don't recall hearing any realistic alternative solutions, unfortunately.

NYT: Half Brother of Afghan President Is Killed in Kandahar

_________________________________________________

"Sure, you would like to shake the hand of the Navy SEAL who capped Osama bin Laden. But you have a lot more riding on whether Lt. Gen. William Caldwell’s mission is successful."

A well-written piece in the Marine Corps Times last week focused on my most recent command, NATO Training Mission Afghanistan, and its commanding general. The article highlights the immense challenges facing the command, the differing political views (here in the States and among allies) on its viability, and most gratifying to those of us who've served it, the tremendous importance of the mission -- given our nation's stated goal of leaving behind a "good enough" government backed by a capable Afghan National Army and Afghan National Police. Although troops all over the country can find themselves in mentoring roles, it is on this relatively small training command (only 2-3% of ISAF as of last year) that the 'main effort' really hinges...transition is the name of the game, and NTM-A has the ball on it.

Lt. Gen. Caldwell takes command of NTM-A, Nov. '09

MC Times: Caldwell aims to build up Afghan forces

Finally, I wrote of my younger brother Steve in my last post, currently deployed as a 2LT in the Army. This is a fitting time to mention my older brother, former LCDR Patrick (aka Slappy), US Navy. He celebrates 40 years of livin' today, and set the example for me to try to emulate as an officer and a leader. I would say gentleman too, but I don't want him to suffer flashbacks of Lou Gossett Jr. terrorizing him as he tried out for the Navy. Happy birthday, brother!

As a sobering reminder of how long four decades can actually be, this is a photo titled "Kabul, 1970" which I've seen on a few internet archives. It's unfathomable for anyone who knows the city now...

Big changes afoot...

2011-07-01T12:53:00.002-06:00

--------------------------

"There will be some battles, there will be suicide attacks, and bomb attacks. But we in the Afghan forces are prepared to replace the foreign forces and I'm confident the army has enough capacity and ability."
- Gen. Mohammad Zahir Azimi, on the coming transition period.

Reuters, 6-29-2011: Smoke billows from the Intercontinental Hotel

Within one week of that statement by my dear colleague Gen. Azimi, known to you who've followed along as Spokesman for Afghanistan's Ministry of Defense, came the latest test of that resolve -- an assault on Kabul's iconic Intercontinental Hotel this past Tuesday. The link below provides details, most troubling of which may be the accounts by witnesses of some police fleeing the scene rather than fighting the insurgents. As always, I caution those trying to understand the security situation there to separate army from police, a practice made all the more difficult by the insistence of the training command responsible for their collective development to lump them together into a vague "Afghan National Security Force" category. As we often pointed out in my office, we are not the "Armed Force" of the United States, and that doesn't even take into account law enforcement...so why we foist a strange term on their makeup of security forces is beyond me.

Afghan Taliban sends message with hotel attack

More significant than the most recent attack, though, is the drastic change in war -- er, counterterrorism -- policy just announced by our administration in the US. If the early speculation is correct, it amounts to a complete and total re-imagining of how we plan to combat our sworn enemies in the not-too-distant future. My initial reaction is that limiting our effort, at least in Afghanistan, to strikes of a "targeted, surgical" nature appeals to most of the American public (at least those aware that we are at war) who are weary of a long conflict and its costs and sacrifice, and to a largely risk-averse leadership anxious to see fewer Americans return in coffins. My concern, however, is that abandoning an approach of more carrot than stick will greatly fray the trust between coalition members and the Afghans...the very trust desperately needed to obtain intelligence that will deliver 'enemies of Afghanistan' to justice, rather than settle old feuds between families or tribes. The fewer boots we have on the ground (both military and civilian), the harder it is to tell when we are being played by one side or another.

White House unveils retooled plan to hunt al-Qaida

I'll say it a million times if I have to...beyond a core group which mainly hides safely in Pakistan, the Taliban today is not one cohesive entity, as it's often thought of and may once have been. It's often a moniker of convenience, more akin to a collective term for an array of those who have an interest in bringing down the Afghan government or taking over regional control, whether it's fundamentalists in the South, arms dealers on the Pakistan border in the East, or Uzbek separatists in the Northwest, or any other insurgent group. It takes a great deal of conversation on the ground by many participants, leading to long relationships built among the community's influencers, to sort out who is who and what the various agendas really are. While this report focuses on al Qaeda, its implementation in Afghanistan specifically may mean what many of us someday expected: A pull back from nation-building and a reborn reliance upon 'light-footprint' death from above.

The big lurking question is, again, how ready are the Afghan military and police forces for vastly increased responsibility? The answer, I'm afraid, is not very. As I observed back in 2006, it will take generations of effort to stand a chance of leaving a nation capable of fending off takeovers from within and from its often-nefarious neighbors. Abandoning that, while perhaps necessary from our national self-interest, will most likely have dire consequences for its survivability and the protection of its women and minorities...and that should at least be acknowledged by those making the decisions.

NCO graduation ceremony, Camp Ghazi - Oct '10

Another point worth mentioning is that TRANSITION is so much more than just training forces to ably fight the enemy. It is everything imaginable, from introducing basic hygienic practices to the slaughterhouses which feed the army to teaching handyman maintenance to unskilled workers. It is rudimentary literacy training (as often detailed), not to mention administration, communication, logistics, etc...the list goes on. A recent story from NTM-A highlights how early in that process we still are, at this point in time.

Coalition plans first building transition to Afghans

That must be the clearest day ever in dusty Kandahar

On an entirely different subject, this week marks my younger brother's deployment to the Middle East as a 2nd Lt in the Army, and I couldn't be prouder of Steve. He's mature beyond his age, and he'll need it as a platoon leader taking on various training missions in a few different countries. It's a strange feeling being on the other end of a deployment in the family for the first time in many years...it's not me off to parts unknown, it's the kid who arrived when I was beginning high school! If he manages to blog on his experiences, I'll certainly link to it...he's in for an interesting adventure over the next year.

Jan '11 - Year of transition for our family, too

Last year at this time, I wrote of how I better be doing something special for the Summer Solstice, and visiting him during his last days before leaving Fort Lewis was exactly that. In fact, we caught the legendary Solstice Parade in Seattle's Fremont neighborhood, and then ushered in the longest day of the year with in Olympia (WA) with my good friend from NTM-A, Chief Gordon. There are worse ways to greet the Summer than catching up with an outstanding leader over delicious craft brews and standout bluegrass music while wishing my brother a safe and successful deployment. As our dad is fond of saying...Vaya con Dios, hermano!

Crusty major & fresh-faced lieutenant - Seattle, June '11

Good times in the Pacific NW w-Chief Gordon

April 2011 - Reuniting with my director Dave Beeksma in LA.

The highly inappropriate backdrop for two Afghan hands was my idea.

Just because...

Steps forward, and back

2011-06-16T02:30:00.001-06:00

Minaret of the great mosque of Mazar-e-Sharif, Nov 2010

Note upfront: I've been working on this entry for more than a week, and still struggle with whether or not it's a good use of time and effort to blog about a place and experience that are further removed from my consciousness all the time. It's not that I don't still follow every development that I can out of Afghanistan, and it's certainly not that I'm lighting the web on fire with my pace of "updates" -- it's that I doubt that I can contribute a worthy narrative when I'm not there. So while my search continues for something purposeful on this side of the world, and really the clarity and peace to determine what that something may be, it seems backwards sometimes for me to attempt to revisit the past or even do my best to highlight its present from a vantage point in the States. It may just be my personal frustration, but it keeps me from sharing the trove of photos & stories I still have from this deployment.

Riders enroute to play buzkashi, Nov 2010

It's been well over a year since I dove into the advisory role that became my life for most of 2010, and the debate in this country is again heating up over the anticipated drawdown of US forces (NATO allies and other Coalition partners each have their own internal pressures centered on the same question, of course). What everyone wants to know from those of us who've served in Afghanistan, it seems from casual conversation, is when the troops will come home, or (still) why we are even there. The cost appears to be mind-boggling, and the effort thankless when indicators are raised that point to failure or stagnancy. For every story of a successful counterinsurgency program in one district, it seems there is another of a worsening security situation...and target dates for transition and the like seem to be based more on how much time can be squeezed from reluctant politicians, rather than realistic estimates of what it will take to leave a stable, functioning government and nation in our wake.

Residents of a village outside Mazar, Nov 2010

In particular, the increased rate, audacity and lethality of attacks in the north of the country have many worried. I was personally shocked when I learned that the UN personnel killed in the post-Koran-burning riots of early April were in Mazar-e-Sharif, a city seemingly stable and safe enough to be in the forefront of complete transition to Afghan security and administration. The capital of the northern regions had effectively already been handed over, from what I could tell...and politically that wasn't too surprising, given that it was the power base of the Northern Alliance, those most amenable to the current Afghan government. Massoud territory, to put it simply. But lately it's not moving in the right direction, as the assassination of police chief Gen. Daud Daud recently demonstrated.

"The Taliban are spreading like wild fire," said an angry Mohammad Jan, who had come from neighbouring Kunduz province. "Try and take the road from north-eastern Baghlan province to Takhar via Kunduz. You are guaranteed a Taliban ambush."

BBC: Ominous signs for Afghanistan's north

Aftermath of the attack on the UN agency in Mazar

Another story from last week points to how heavily dependent the Afghan government is upon US, UN & other international funding. While this is an issue apparent to anyone with an understanding of how we are proceeding to achieve stability, there is shockingly little knowledge of (a) how much we actually are collectively spending, (b) how little capacity there is for internally generated net revenue, and (c) how little we know about what plan there is, if any, to significantly change the situation by 2014, the supposed Year of Transition. Usually I try to vary my sources, but few news organizations are covering developments in Afghanistan with the regularity that the BBC is.

BBC: Afghanistan faces 2014 "cash crisis" when troops leave

US foreign aid - now in "wheat" form!

While the conclusion that "misspent foreign aid can result in corruption" is the most hilariously obvious understatement of the decade -- and a mere fact of life in Afghanistan -- the need for "more scrutiny" of contracts is just as obvious and just as evasive, no matter how many Coalition positions are added to do just that. From what I saw at the level of senior advisors to government ministries, there are numerous initiatives around the country to start or re-start profitable enterprise, agriculture and trade...someday. There are very few that likely will fit that profile within three years. The obstacles are just too many. So once again, a note of caution: If you believe that by the big year 2014 that we'll be out of Afghanistan, in terms of troops and serious funding, without a total collapse of every gain we've made...then I've got a Tajik-Afghan Friendship Bridge to sell you. Name your price.

On the good news front, the rapid boost of literacy programs for Afghanistan's security forces is highlighted in this story. One of the lessons learned at NATO Training Mission Afghanistan is just how operationally crucial, how sorely needed, and how beneficial to all of society these programs can be. It's a classic example of what some observers call mission creep, but what others point out as a necessity for mission accomplishment. If you say that transition is the goal, but the forces to which you're transitioning can't count to ten or write down names, then what's the point?

NTM-A: Literacy enhancing ANSF training, professionalism

Could the pen actually be mightier than the sword?

Where things stand

2011-05-12T21:24:00.002-06:00

A photo from my successor, Edward Faircloth.

December, 2010

Since it seems impossible to avoid the ubiquitous questions about how his removal could/should alter our entire approach in Afghanistan, I feel the need to weigh in again.

It's dissipating already and inevitably of course, this sense of gleeful upheaval in America in the wake of Osama bin Laden's demise. The few days following that bastard's takedown struck me as ones of tremendous relief and satisfaction for the nation, and for all of humanity. The celebrations in my old home of New York City were a sight to behold, even from afar...all the weariness of a decade of the (ridiculously named) "War on Terror" or the (more apt but still terribly lame) "Long War" was broken up briefly for a moment of pride and even jubilation. I understand perfectly well -- I think most of us do -- that it's not following the tenets of compassion and forgiveness to celebrate the killing of anyone, no matter how vile. But for the good of civilization, he had to go...and we can sincerely hope that it weakens the movement he fronted.

I am bothered by the sobering thought that the other shoe -- the reminder that the fight against al Qaeda, and really any terrorist gang with an axe to grind or a West to blame, must continue -- is yet to drop for most of the jubilant or even relieved. As for the perspective that the death of bin Laden weakens our case for staying in Afghanistan any longer, I can understand it on its face...if only in terms of logic at its simplest. We sent our troops in to apprehend or kill those who perpetrated the 9/11 attacks, and to overthrow the Taliban regime which sheltered al Qaeda and refused to turn them over. But if the era of asymmetrical warfare has taught us anything, it's that things get quickly messy on the ground, and missions grow more complicated each day. So what began as "Let's go get 'em!" transitioned to "Let's clean up this place" (with far too few troops), to eventually, "Wait, let's build the Afghan capacity to protect and govern themselves so we can eventually excuse ourselves without a failed state back on our hands." And that's pretty much what we've been working on in earnest and with proper resources for only about two years. There is a long, LONG way to go to see that through.

With colleagues at the Ministry of Defense, Jan. 2011

These are the type of good men who are targeted by insurgents for trying to build a better Afghanistan rather than a primitive one.

We're mired chest-deep, or maybe scalp-deep, in that mission now. And I'd guess we're pretty damn far from anything close to a consensus on how much more we're willing to dedicate (whether we're doing that right is another story...more on that another time). What those who'd automatically shut it down and bring everyone home might wish to consider is that we've left Afghanistan in the lurch before, with serious consequences...and that many commanders and even independent observers insist that we are making progress now ("fragile and reversible gains," but still, gains). What those who'd continue the rebuilding endlessly might wish to consider is that the number of attacks by Afghans in uniform on Coalition members, or on their government, or on their own civilians, point to a worsening situation. At the very least, we must be willing to constantly and truly re-evaluate our approach and have the courage to alter it as needed.

One of those incidents took place just two weeks ago at the base located alongside Kabul Airport; eight airmen and one civilian of NTM-A lost their lives when an Afghan pilot opened fire on them. When attacks this disturbing were far more rare, I was troubled by the overreaction to them by those who didn't work alongside Afghan soldiers...and now I feel instead the helpless reaction from half a world away, wondering how many more our public (those paying attention, anyway) have the stomach for.

Memorial service at Camp Eggers, April 2011

Photo from Edward Faircloth

The week before that, on April 18, a bold attack aimed at the Ministry of Defense made headlines. It unfolded just a few steps from where I worked most of the time there. My trusted colleague and friend John was there that day, advising our counterparts in the MoD and Afghan National Army, as was one of our indispensable interpreters, Masoud. As the news unfolded (it wasn't easy to find in US media), I experienced relief that my guys were alright, sadness that observant Afghan soldiers were killed, worry that the infiltrators got as close as they did to the minister's office, and fear that the will of the opposition -- no matter who that means -- could be greater than that of those who support the government. It doesn't help that it's awfully hard for fair-minded, patriotic Afghans to support the Karzai & cronies regime.

Anyone wishing to dig deeper into some analysis of why Osama's death is not a game-changer in Afghanistan should read this excellent post by a blogger named Old Blue. I particularly felt the passage below acutely...

Deceptively Satisfying (on 'Afghan Quest')

Once the complexity and difficulty of Afghanistan became clear, the “good war” came under fire. Most of us who were personally involved in Afghanistan while it was still the “forgotten, good war” (as opposed to the “bad war” in Iraq), knew that the goodwill towards Afghanistan would wane as the nature of the conflict proceeded to baffle the minds of the ill-informed and idealistic. Now there is a more plausible reason to declare victory and abandon Afghanistan to its fate, as if it will never again influence the world it is a part of.

Osama bin Laden, BIH

2011-05-01T23:58:00.005-06:00

"We will be relentless in our defense of our citizens and our friends and allies," President Obama said. "And on nights like this one, we can say to families who lost loved ones to al Qaeda's terror: justice has been done."

First, and most importantly: Bravo Zulu ("well done," for those not of the sea services) and thank you to the Navy SEALS, CIA operators and whoever else took part in, planned and gathered intelligence for the risky covert operation which delivered this enemy of civilization to justice.

The "BIH" in this post's title is in place of the traditional RIP (Rest in Peace). I'm using it as shorthand for "Burn in Hell." If you think for a moment of the nearly 3,000 victims of September 11, the sailors of the USS Cole and possibly the families of the Khobar Towers, the hundreds killed in the embassy bombings in Africa, the thousands killed by the Taliban under his financing, the 2,340 service members of 28 nations killed in Afghanistan since 2001, and the 140,000 or so service members there now, half a world from their families (not to mention the thousands of civilians for which I don't have the numbers)...it was really just one incredibly wealthy, warmongering, murderous Wahhabi "prince" responsible for setting it all in motion.

This is unusual terrain for a writer who tries to relate firsthand experiences, or at least sound off only on that about which he may know something insightful...but as much as everyone who cares about peace and justice has wanted to see Osama's demise for the past decade or more, I remain convinced that this development is mainly symbolic. That does NOT mean that I dismiss its significance for that reason. The symbolism that he embodied is still very powerful, and perhaps he was more involved still in al-Qaeda operations than we guessed. I mean to say that from the perspective of one who has deployed to Afghanistan twice over the past five years, bin Laden has not been relevant to operations there. He certainly was on my mind back in the aftermath of 9-11-2001, when I lived in the vicinity of New York City as it reeled and then rapidly recovered from the attacks. And understandably, those in the Fire Department, the Police Department, and the Port Authority Police who were there -- not to mention, anyone at all who lost loved ones that day -- would have thought of the cretin more often.

In short, he may have been why we were there in the first place, but he did not define what we were doing there...not for the past nine years, anyway.

Operation Enduring Freedom, for all intents and purposes, ceased being about catching Osama bin Laden sometime after his escape at Tora Bora in December of 2001. Fun fact: It was largely because of that particular complex that our nation's talking heads smugly parroted the notion that he was hiding in a cave ever since...while most reasonable analysts have concluded for years was that bin Laden was in a safe house somewhere, and most likely in Pakistan. And OBL was really never a topic of conversation among those of us serving even near the border, which made it all the more absurd when some visiting journalists would claim to understand an operation and its environment, only to go on camera or go to print immediately speculating about Osama's location as if it had anything to do with the mission at hand. Now that he's been taken out in the mansion he called his hiding place, we can quit wondering about his health and whereabouts, and maybe -- just maybe -- focus on clarifying what we seek to accomplish in Afghanistan and how we can best go about it.

Today I got to sleep in, then bike for hours into Colorado mountains, then watch my Mets (finally) take out the Phillies after 14 exhausting innings, and during the game, hear the news that bin Laden is dead. My comrades still in Afghanistan go about their business, as do the tens of thousands on patrol in deadly environments each day. I wish the big news meant that we can declare "Victory!" and call 'em all back pronto...but again, this fight hasn't been about him since its earliest days. Still... Good riddance, ruthless murderer. And keep working to secure a peaceful and stable Afghanistan, brave men and women of the Coalition, and brave Afghans who seek a better future.

"Bin Laden was not a Muslim leader; he was a mass murderer of Muslims." -- President Obama

Back Where It All Begins

2011-03-16T18:52:00.005-06:00

March '09: The annual Allman Brothers' residency in NYC

I'm not talking about Kabul in this case...or Khost, or Bagram, or Camp Lejeune, or even Quantico. I'm talking about New York City, and the annual run of Allman Brothers Band shows at the Beacon Theater. We each have our markers, our reminders that more time than we possibly realize is slipping on by...and one of mine is a ritual that I missed in 2010 for the first time in a decade. It was only Marine Corps service that ever caused me to miss a year since I started going 15 years ago, in fact...and as I sit in Colorado growing more grateful for what I have here, I'm positively fired up to be back there by this time next week. I couldn't quite get my young Afghan brothers to dig the band's phenomenal range the way I do, but I'm willing to bet that they'd enjoy a live show every bit as I did the entertainers I was fortunate enough to catch in Kabul.

KMTC concert, Oct '10: Qais, Joe and I crash the stage.

Shafiq Murid & Sita Qasimi, national talents, entertain the ANA.

Esmat checks out the view from in front of the stage.

March in NYC is also relevant to my beginnings as it's St. Patrick's Month (that's right...month). It's a great time to be Irish-American no matter where you are, but New York is the epicenter. As my family roots go through there, it was all the more meaningful to celebrate the 17th for years as a resident...and all the more bittersweet to spend a few anywhere else (although the surprise of coming across a bagpiper in Jalalabad made '06 just as special as any). Marching up Fifth Avenue in the world's largest parade, as the fourth generation of my family to do so, was simply one of the greatest thrills that military service afforded me. I'm not talking about donning neon green beads, shamrock-shaped glasses and a "Kiss Me, I'm Drunk" t-shirt; getting trashed at 9 am on Paddy O' Hurricanes and green-colored Bud Lite; and singing "Why don't we get drunk and screw?" until everyone pukes all over the sidewalk. Nothing against drunken shenanigans, but this time of year actually means a celebration of heritage, faith and family for a lot of us...something that enabled me to relate to major holidays in other parts of the world that would seem on the surface to have nothing in common with this one. OK, and Guinness. And maybe Jameson's. But those are strictly optional. Erin go Bragh!

A bunch of Irish hoodlums clean up for the season's start.

March '11: Joe & I reunited under more civilized rules...

...and bring a touch of Afghan-Irish class to Grand Central.

The post title applies in another sense. While I normally wouldn't comment on an unresolved command decision in Afghanistan, it's noteworthy that my director, mentor and friend Dave is soon completing his year in Kabul, and there are no clear answers on the future structure of our Public Affairs development mission. That is not to imply that advising and training in our functional area is about to cease -- for one thing, my dear friends and dedicated teammates still there haven't let up one bit, and continue to devote themselves day after day to building the capacity and capabilities of our Afghan allies. But it does complete an arc which saw a robust team structure, one with a disproportionate share of experience, re-energize the task at hand. It was that newly-formed structure, built from what Joe, John, Pam, Esmat & Qais were somehow doing on their own last March, that I was fortunate to jump into when I arrived ten months ago. Without that lead-in and guidance, I surely would have gone crazy as I tried to figure out the ins and outs of the Defense and Interior Ministries...instead of waiting until I got back to the States to lose it (insert madman laugh here).

The team as I departed: Pam, Senior, John, Qais, Esmat and Dave...

Along with six of my favorite Afghan colonels.

Dave in the ISAF garden, holding a periodic team meeting...

(conveniently when our camp was on a lock-down drill)

So my heartfelt wishes go out to all who remain, as they tirelessly continue the daily grind of meetings, site visits, meetings, translations, meetings, presentations, justification pitches, and more meetings. It's not glamorous work, even if you do sometimes find yourself meeting with the country's biggest power brokers and most famous faces. I hope you all know how much you're in our thoughts every day. My best wishes go out as well to the others who've moved on, from those who long preceded me and got the ball rolling, to those about to make the leap back to this side of the world in the coming weeks. In the spirit of tomorrow's great holiday, here is an Irish blessing in (hopefully accurate) Gaelic, with the translation following...

Go raibh tú daibhir i mí-áidh
Agus saibhir i mbeannachtaí
Go mall ag déanamh namhaid, go luath a déanamh carad,
Ach saibhir nó daibhir, go mall nó go luath,
Nach raibh ach áthas agat
Ón lá seo amach.

May you be poor in misfortune,
Rich in blessings,
Slow to make enemies,
quick to make friends,
But rich or poor, quick or slow,
May you know nothing but happiness
From this day forward.

Another departure: Brig. Gen. Neasmith leaves today.
He was an outstanding leader...smart, calm & personable.

Here he presented me with a coin on my last advisor meeting.

My last time feeding Casper, who wolfed down a steak...

Her empty belly clearly showed she had her litter!

The pups I never got to see, courtesy of my successor, Edward.

Weeks later, the scrappy one he named "Major."

Now THAT is back where it all begins.

The Pause Button

2011-03-05T12:49:00.002-07:00

At poor peace I sing

To you strangers, (though song

Is a burning and crested act,

The fire of birds in

The world's turning wood,

For my sawn, splay sounds)

- Dylan Thomas,

Prologue to 'Collected Poems'

_________________________

Written from Boulder, CO, in late February...

Since posting my last, I have already been warmly supported by readers, friends and family, and am extremely grateful for it. In an urge to shed more light on the disjointed transition, allow me to refer to a vexing phenomenom I call "the pause button." Not that I coined it...a chaplain who gave the mandatory post-deployment brief to a few of us at Camp Lejeune last month mentioned it. Such briefs usually focus entirely on reuniting with family and coping with combat stress, but this one contained something more relevant to my situation: the notion our minds stubbornly build that life as we know it 'back home,' and for everyone else we know, is on pause. No matter how irrational it may seem to those who haven't sequestered themselves in the deployed way of life for a time, it's a construct that becomes very real for some of us...a coping mechanism.

Again I'll insist that my plan, such as it was, was simply to catch you all up on the sights and tales of Afghanistan as I experienced it...not to pour forth a series of laments about post-adventure life. But in the interest of bringing the journey full circle, it is significant as it's where I am now. Transition back has not only overwhelmed me and left me devoid of purpose, but discouraged me from looking back much thus far. Still, I do my best to stay attuned to events back in the 'stan, and feel a part of every development in the rush to build the capabilities of their nascent defense and police forces. How can I not? I just hope to focus enough mental energy on the present and future, which hopefully entails enjoying the West again and at least accepting that I won't have the answer tomorrow, or the next day.

That brings me back to the pause button. When I receive updates on changes at NTM-A and in Afghanistan's Defense and Interior Ministries, I can process those. If I returned, I wouldn't be surprised to find things quite different, and would likely be able to adjust quickly...there'd be no choice. But here, head still spinning from the realization that my illusory life in the States is nothing like what I imagined it would be, it is a daily battle to get past the entrenched pause notion. Everyone and everything continues to change, whether you accept that or not, and putting off decisions about what should come next...well, that's a killer when suddenly squeezed between depression and anxiety. A key position in Kabul was easy by comparison.

Writing from Bronxville, NY, today...

Too stuck and overwhelmed in place, I took off for my old environs in the NYC and area for a frenzy of visits. It's been food for the soul. Over the past week I've been so fortunate to spend time with people who mean the world to me, who care about me, and who even do their best to point out that it wasn't just an odd dream...I actually did spend most of the past year on a mission in Afghanistan.

* Blogger has failed me once again. The "add image" function has not been operable for a while. Therefore, you are stuck with just words and no pretty pictures for now. My humble apologies...

Transition?

2011-02-22T23:55:00.001-07:00

Pier to eternity. New River in fog, April 2010.

It looks like I've repeated the post-deployment no-blogging pattern so far. Somehow it's already been almost a month since my last, and I feel terrible for that. There is a real struggle though, to deal with what's here and now rather than what's past. I'll share first a note on weather and timing, jotted down on 1/27 while still in Jacksonville, only a day after that last post. Following that are some more current thoughts from Boulder, CO.

______________________________________________

Not the evening described below, but a milder sunset from 2010.

Just when I disparaged "down east" (as the locals call it) for its constant rain, the weather gods felt the need to remind me of how pleasant it can be, and then some. Following an absolutely miserable day of bureaucratic and systemic frustrations that every service member, Reserve warrior and veteran get to enjoy from time to time (honestly, you'd think I was the first freakin' one to ask HOW I can ensure I'll receive this medical coverage I've been promised for the next string of months), I went for a long run to numb that anger with some physical pain. What I got to take in as a reward was one of the most absolutely brilliant sunsets ever thrown across a sky. It killed me to not have a camera handy. What started as a long horizontal triangle of bold pink, surrounded by linings of gold and layers of purple, turned for a time into half a sky of torrid reds and violet-pink cloud. It was truly awesome, in the original meaning of the word.

Well after the sky had put on a brilliant show, I got back to the river with my crappy ol' camera phone for the last gasp of color.

Even this morning I knew the skies would be busy refuting my complaints...the morning's early light perfectly illuminated the sweep of fog and mist that so often clings to the scrub and the streams, before spreading across the open ground at daybreak. On days like this one, it's easy to recall what a swamp this entire coastal plain is. On a related note, from this region of eastern Carolina into northern Virginia, I keep voicing my amazement at the sheer number of trees our country has in its landscapes. Just one of those things I may have never noticed if I hadn't spent so much time in a place so starved for that feature. As you may have read in my blog entries from 2006, Afghanistan has trees prominently in just a few places, and even in those, the problem of illegal harvesting (which doesn't leave anything re-planted, of course) threatens their future while drought ensures that most of the country will continue to be barren.

North Carolina trees, January 2011

__________________________________________________

Downtown Boulder in snow, February 2011

Aside from amateur meteorology description then, what's the current situation for your nomadic narrator? A full-time attempt at "transition" and "adjustment"...though those words don't mean much at all when it was a very transient, unsettled situation you left in the first place. Honestly, I thought I'd be a hell of a lot happier in at least my first few weeks. There have been some very good times, some standout moments that have welcomed me back across the first month stateside, from Virginia to NC to Nevada to Colorado...but no vacation yet from the psychological burden of doing something important with myself, with this experience...and now?

You can take the "Dan" out of Afghanistan...

But still the shadows will give chase.

Now the hard work begins. For whatever reason, it is far more daunting to me to establish some sort of 'normal' life than it is to log 18-hour days for 8 months straight in Afghanistan, working my tail off to try and build a government ministry and new army's capacity. That is my next thing, I think, to create stability where I've known none...and to ignore the teasing temptation to simply be irresponsible for awhile, which works counter to that. In the frequent, more depressed moments, I see myself as a homeless, jobless, car-less, even ski-less (in Colorado!) single veteran who still somehow is saddled with too much accumulated stuff. It's as if the last ten months were an odd dream, and I'm back trying to figure out life in the place to which I up and moved just a few months before that.

Hike up Mount Sanitas, and Boulder drops far below.

My hiking partner and buddy's best friend, Bodie

I didn't plan on a segue from my Afghan chronicles to the personal lamentation of a restless, anxiety-hounded Nowhere Man who is searching for the motivation to do even some of the most basic things. But it seems that I'm doing it anyway. Bear with me...I still plan to post "lost chapters" of this deployment (hopefully in time to keep the attention of some loyal readers, anyway)...and your honest feedback is always welcome.

Cheers,
ColoraDan

No place feels further from Kabul than Vegas.

"Redeployment"

2011-01-26T15:22:00.001-07:00

Bird-spotting: wondering which plane would take me home.

REDEPLOYMENT. That's the odd name our military uses these days for returning from deployment. So despite whatever logical tendency you may have to assume that it would mean "deploying again" or "returning to deployment", now you know it means coming back from one. That's what I've now done, or am still doing: redeploying.

Hurry-up-and-wait in Kuwait.

Once again I am indebted to you, dear readers, for encouraging me to continue this blog. I'll post in full some of those stories I missed, and will fill in more of the return experience, but as it's now 2 weeks exactly since I landed back in the U.S., I absolutely have to get something up. Hence, this rambling piece.

Mural at Bagram Air Base, Afghanistan

It's an abrupt change, being stateside again after most of a year away. Return from deployment tests us all in different ways...for those with their own families, there is the "reintegration" of that. For us without, there are still numerous challenges...everyone you know is at a different point in their respective lives now. You've changed and they've changed, and as much as you may strive to find an immediate "normal", there is none.

Thrilled to see some immediate family at BWI!

It has rained in Jacksonville, NC, for 3 days straight, and at some point during most of the others as well. It's a drastic change from experiencing rain maybe 3 days in all of 8 months, and only briefly at that.

The New River, North Carolina, in rain.

I check my hip constantly for my weapon. We all do. It's weird how many times you have to process the realization that it's not there -- you turned it in, dude.

Last twilight in Kuwait before the return trip.

I'm incredibly anxious, to what's probably an unhealthy extent, about what's next. My pattern for a few years now has been one of chucking aside the uniform for awhile, only to grow restless and return to the one known commodity: that of going to fill an open job somewhere, one that ostensibly requires my skill sets and experience. I've been offered a few already, and haven't even finished the mandatory outprocessing from this one. Wish me luck as I seek to buck that trend for once.

Camp Swampy living up to its nickname this week...

Some seem to anchor themselves quite easily to what's consistent or stable in their lives. Some might be free of past associations, but set about going after their goals in a straightforward manner. And some return to their struggles. I belong to that category...of those who turn inward and don't find clear goals, who overthink just about everything, who find themselves dwelling too often on things out of our control, and consequently, who wonder just where we are supposed to fit in.

Various members of family AfghaniDan rock their scarves.

I hope I can purely enjoy life for awhile, and shake off this philosopher's lament...it comes saddled with too much attachment, too much fantasy, and often, too much heartbreak. Although I yearned every single day for all that I couldn't enjoy while deployed, there is a sudden unhappiness in being back and realizing that some things are not as you remembered, or would like them to be. I think every day about the latest struggles my team is facing, and about those whose deployment is infinitely more dangerous than mine ever was. And I have enough difficulty taking my mind off all the possible tasks to tackle without constantly being asked what I'm doing next...I know most people mean well, but please -- cut a recent veteran a break!

A little snapshot of my current neighborhood.

My surroundings should soon be the Rocky Mountains again.

Departure

2011-01-10T13:47:00.004-07:00

Just past sunrise, my last day at Camp Eggers.

My time at NATO Training Mission - Afghanistan, and specifically at the Government of Afghanistan's Ministry of Defense, came to an end this past week as I began my trip homeward. The end of it all seemed abrupt -- although that's mainly due to my tendency to continue working until the very last minute, and thus refuse to pack or prepare for departure in a timely manner. Still, I found it exceedingly difficult to wash my hands of something that became my full-time work, and life, for the better part of a year. The nagging feeling (Irish guilt?) that I just could have done MORE, or better, persists...no matter how counterproductive it may be.

The flags of Eggers with snowy mountains beyond.

My roommate Ken came to see me off...of course it took a Canadian lawyer for the camp to pair me with someone who took issue with our stubborn ways of doing business as much as I did.

As I've noted already, it's a bittersweet feeling to leave...and it honestly got harder with each passing day. I almost lunged for yet another extension when it appeared that it would be in the best interest of my ministerial development team's mission, before deciding to press on with the (oddly, more difficult) course of calling it a day. I can't easily describe this to those who haven't deployed, or put in a similar stretch of time and effort in a challenging situation in a distant land. My brother phrased it as a form of Stockholm Syndrome, and he may be on to something with that. I'll go with an extreme case of attachment.

Most of my team, aka my Kabul family: Qais, Pam, Dave and John. Not pictured: Joe (back in the States after his year here) and Esmat, who just couldn't bear my departure ;)

My chariot awaits. It was the first time I'd taken ground transportation from Kabul to Bagram, and despite the appearance of the huge hulking obtrusive vehicle, it was a smooth ride.

How is one supposed to gauge an experience like this, anyhow? I was asked a few times in the past couple of weeks about what positives and negatives, achievements and disappointments, I can name...and found that I couldn't answer very adequately, because it's all a blur. Due to the nature of advising, and building relationships, I stopped trying to see things in black-and-white terms of success or failure, and viewed what we were doing in terms of continuity of effort. That's not to say that goals and initiatives were forgotten; just that the big picture -- of trust, and independence rather than interdependence -- took priority over checks in the proverbial boxes.

Ordered chaos: Kabul street scenes on my way north.

Even Kabulis know how atrocious the air quality has become.

The fact is that I don't know if I made a difference at all. I know that I gave it my all, and that I still have some regrets about how I could have handled one thing or another, or how I could have suffered less stress over developments that turned out to be inconsequential. I've done everything I could to restore faith in some Afghan partners that we stand behind them, even though uncertainty is certainly warranted -- how much of a stomach for very long-term nation-building do we really have? I am positive that my outlook on this entire conflict will never be the same after the view gained from "the inside" of Kabul's most powerful ministries, and I'm grateful to the colleagues who let me in on the real story so much of the time. It was often frustrating, sometimes hopeful, and always fascinating.

A Kabul hill dotted with homes, whose kids play in the dry riverbed below. This drought is so severe, and has gone on so long: heartbreakingly cruel for a nation which has suffered this much.

A peace-themed billboard features the late Ahmad Shah Massoud outside of Kabul. His legacy is often regarded as the only bond between factions which threaten still to split Afghanistan apart.

I'm not done blogging about this deployment just because it's ending...not by a long shot. And unlike the last time, I hope to stick to my word on that. If you think there is little sense in doing so, just remember that most posts were long after the events they covered anyway, so it's just more of the same. There is a great deal that I did not have time to recap, from unauthorized social events to the incredible trip to Mazar-e-Sharif. On the other hand, if you've had enough and think it should end now that I'm on my way out, voice it! This blog could always stand to be more interactive...

Beautiful snow-capped mountains emerge from obstructed view
as one climbs in elevation, heading north from Kabul.

Sal-e Now Mubarek!

2011-01-01T14:51:00.005-07:00

Departing Mongolians group photo, July 2010

Or...Happy New Year! Even though every one of my Afghan friends has incessantly reminded me that it's not their new year, which if I didn't know already, would be painfully obvious to me by now. Sprinkled throughout this late late rambling will be more leftover shots from the past Gregorian calendar year...which has only served to remind me that there are quite a few entire entries that still must go up, from wherever I am in coming months.

Busted-up Soviet tank, Kabul - July '10

I just tried for the past early-morning hour to boldly go where the AfghaniDan blog has never gone before, and add some music. I crossed my fingers, and said a prayer for it to work properly and play something for you all. I've taken video clips a number of times this deployment, some even with sound! (note to self: read camera manual next time), and tried to post two clips of live music. Alas, the weak wireless I pick up will not comply. Until post-deployment then, you'll just have to imagine the sounds of local music...

This would be way cooler with music...

Afghan wedding, October 2010

And now, a page from my final week. Imagine that you're in the pressure-packed world of Kabul, with its constant intrigue, jockeying for influence among bitter rivals, and ethnic and religious hatreds still simmering never far below the surface. In this environment, the slightest alteration of a word -- or more common still, the choice to translate into one word instead of another -- causes senior gov't officials, military commanders, even heads of state to lose...their heads. Imagine you are in the position of advising one of the most highly-visible personalities in the land, in his capacity as voice of the powerful Ministry of Defense (or the equivalent to our Pentagon, only proportionally even more influential...if you can imagine that). Now imagine that in that capacity, when your own command's leadership wants desperately and instantly to know what the ministry said in the press about something, you find you have to rely upon versions like this piece of work...

MOD officials: “2010 was the bloodiest year for Afghanistan”.

به گفته ي جنرال ظاهر عظیمی سخنگوی وزارت دفاع ملي در جریان سال 2010 علاوه بر کشته شدن صد ها فرد ملکی، پوليس و نیروهای خارجی بیش از 800 تن از سربازان اردوی ملی نیز جان های خود را از دست داده اند.

“During 2010 year, in addition to killing hundreds of civilians, ANP and Coalition Forces, more than 800 ANA soldiers were killed” said MOD Spokesperson.

سخنگوی وزارت دفاع ملي افغانستان به راديو آزادي گفته است كه علت اساسی افزایش تلفات افراد ملکی و نیروهای اردوی ملی در این سال جاز سازی ماین های کنار سرک توسط مخالفان دولت بوده است.

“The main reason of ANA casualties pertain to roadside bombs, which have been done through the Anti-Government militants” MOD Spokesperson told Radio Azadi.

در همين حال عظیمی تاكيد كرده است که در جریان این سال به مخالفان مسلح دولت هم تلفات سنگیني وارد شده و بیشترين ضربه را ديده اند.

Likewise, General Azimi added: “During the recent year, also insurgents have been suffered heavy and further casualties.

_________________________

You know how it invariably turns out, once each controversy runs its course? That my guy just repeated something that the Defense Minister said that morning. But such is the way it goes, I suppose...

Kabul, Summer 2010: Election Season

Almost as inundated with campaign signs as Virginia...

Whoa, whoa! I only said "almost."

On a related note (yes, I'm posting regularly now a portion of the nerdy stuff I spend hours reading each night...maybe it's a farewell thing?), I'm grateful to Anna Mulrine -- who also authored the link I sent about Khost province in yesterday's post -- for this story. I'm even more grateful to the anonymous senior US military official for making the point that many of us in the Public Affairs "trenches" have made for some time: highlighting civilian casualties, whether caused by ruthless insurgents or not, likely only furthers the feelings of insecurity among the population, lessening their inclination to support coalition objectives. This is the sense I get from conversations with Afghans from different age groups and backgrounds, and it's the policy of some experienced official spokespersons of Afghanistan's institutions for a reason. We like to dole out the advice: "Find the Afghan solution," but we don't like to listen to it and implement it ourselves. It ends up looking arrogant and counterproductive, if you ask me.

CSM: How Petraeus has changed the Afghanistan war

Actual moment of Petraeus flying in to take command, 7/2/2010

(I just happened to be on a roof at the airport compound)

What a weird period of time that McChrystal episode was.

Another favorite: Bala Hissar, July '10

Hashing out "Strategic Communication," Sept '10

(under the grapes = best conference room ever)

Mongolian feats of strength, July '10

I love that his cap is airborne from the gut punch.

One terrified young groom.

Wedding of a police general's son, July '10

And as I've said before and will surely say again, the daily pressure I faced is absolutely nothing compared to the pressure faced by those who must make life-or-death decisions for their troops every day. They are the ones we must never forget to honor and remember. Two "wartime" deployments almost under my belt, and I'm still in awe when I hear the stories of daily life from a Marine or soldier who actually engages in armed combat on a regular basis...there is not enough we can do for these incredibly selfless warriors.

NC Times: Bell tolls frequently for local Marines in Afghanistan

I know that I'm preaching to the choir, as the saying goes...that you readers of this blog are the kind of people that keep brave men and women in uniform in mind. And I know further that the work here in Kabul and in other safer spots is incredibly important. I say all that more to remind myself of the reality out there.

ANA recruits at a special concert, October '10

Before I learned to not smile in Afghan photos...

Fazel, owner/president of Shamshad TV; and Ching Eikenberry,
wife of the US ambassador to Afghanistan, July '10

Esmat, Esmat and Joe at a wedding - Oct 2010

Shafiq Mureed and Seeta Qasimi perform for Afghan troops, Oct '10

Dutch soldiers cheer on their World Cup upset of Brazil.

Kabul Airport, July '10

"Someone want to tell me already that the new dame is whack?"

Bala Hissar, Kabul - July '10

There'll be more...some more postings hopefully from the 'stan (should dwindling time permit), and certainly more galleries from after I've left and can sort through some more of it. But it's on now to see what 2011 delivers...even if in Afghanistan, it's still 1389 for another 3 months or so. No wonder people seem to think that they are "stuck in time" here!

Casper comes running...a sight I'll dearly miss.
She just became a mom!

Salaam alaikum, 2011

2010-12-31T16:01:00.003-07:00

My favorite from 2010: The Lineup

It's the first minutes of 2011 in Kabul...and I find that when you consider time, it's weird enough that we make such a big deal out of one moment of a year, and even more so when the entire culture of our hosts doesn't recognize anything significant at all taking place except a new day about to begin (it doesn't change over to solar year 1390 until March). Here at Camp Eggers, there was some sort of party being held...but honestly, a New Year's Eve party bereft of alcohol makes about as much sense to me as Christmas without gifts, Thanksgiving without turkey, Halloween without a costume, or Labor Day without rest. And since I did all of those and more, I'm good on short-changing holidays for now, thank you!

Downtown Kabul, late December 2010

Why study hard when you can learn tricks?

And who do you think the English "Stop" is for?

"What is wrong with you people? It's still 1389!"

I don't know about most...judging by what I saw of the camp, the majority were sticking to their usual early bedtimes. I simply went up to the roof of my work building around midnight, lit up a Swisher Sweet (classy, I know -- failed to plan ahead for a cuban or anything), popped open a nonalcoholic Beck's, and stood around freezing for a while with some sailors and airmen who work in the Public Affairs Office for the command. Unlike all of those scenes on CNN of every capital city bursting into a party at the stroke of midnight, Kabul was completely and utterly silent. Honestly, it was refreshing to have a year change over without one of those silly countdowns, which always amuse the hell out of me in a grotesque sort of way. Have you ever stood on the fringes of a party and simply watched as a roomful of people frantically count down to midnight? It's fascinating! But knowing that I could have been doing one of those silly countdowns as it's led by Phish, in Madison Square Garden, with my younger brother...well, that was harder to stomach. Still, this one will be memorable in its own way. That is, if the homecoming tour doesn't demolish my memory entirely.

Taliban? Haqqani? Nope, just government thugs. Whew.

Traffic jams in Kabul are fierce...

...and omnipresent.

So what's going on around here as the western calendar turns, you ask? In Kabul, it's politics, politics, and...did I say politics? Everything is political in nature here: the alliances, the business relationships, foreign policy, monetary policy, social policy, and on it goes. Within the bubble, it can be very difficult to gauge how things look to the commanders, foot soldiers, aid workers and others in the field...and as a few seasoned reporters have pointed out, it remains night and day: you get one story in the capital, you see another in the provinces. Now and then, a piece of journalism stands out, and I thought this one to be an astute and honest look at the challenges taken on by the overall commander (and by extension, all 150,000+ NATO/US/Coalition troops and civilians here)...

Washington Post: Questions for Gen. Petraeus

Why haul around that heavy load?

Just hit the Prestige Super Market for your needs!

Chillin' at the traffic circle umbrella.

You know, I rant plenty about the frustrations of duty in Kabul...while careful always (I hope) to caveat that with the admission that we do enjoy safety and security here, compared to troops in daily danger in some places around the country. But working under the big flagpole has its upside, which is particularly illustrated when you get to unexpectedly cross paths with some guests of the command you're happy to see around. (What's that, a teaser? Damn straight it is...) Consider especially how marginalized Marines are in the joint forces commands of this city, and everywhere in Afghanistan but for Helmand (aka "Marine-istan"), with very Army-heavy ranking officers, staffs and troops...then you might understand the lift from this surprise.

General Amos, the newly minted Marine Corps Commandant, came to town the other day after spending a whirlwind Christmas visiting every command and outpost in the Southwest of Afghanistan where he could find Marines...which is a lot. Read a bit about it here from a reporter who traveled with him:

US General makes big impact on Christmas

"Say General, can you spare a jacket?"

"Suck it up, Marine." "Aye aye, Sir!"

A sobering example of the challenges faced around the country can be found in eastern Khost province, where I spent the majority of my last tour. I'm not sure I agree that it was a model province then, but it did seem to be relatively secure despite a long border with Pakistan, a Pashtun majority, and weak government institutions. It then seemed to be sliding, and it's unclear still if that slide has been arrested. This report is worth a read, as a capsule of the many unstable areas we hope to turn around...

Afghanistan war: How a model province tumbled into violence

And now for some 2010 leftovers. There are a number of galleries I haven't even sorted through enough to post yet, but a select shot from here or there couldn't hurt. Here are some of the moments from the past year I don't think I've shared (if I'm wrong, it could have something to do with staying up until 3 am every night)...

No man is an island, unless he wants to be.

The great mosque, downtown Kabul

Helicopter housing an internet cafe, Shamshad TV

Palaces of old...

(Darul Aman, the King's Palace, in ruins)

Palaces new.
(Kabul Shahan, one of many glitzy wedding halls)

Still packin' heat, but in civvies...

(the only time in the past 8 months!)

Pam's photograph: She gets a sly smile from Minister of the Interior

(and former Chief of Staff of the Army) Bismullah Khan Mohammady

A lazy cat amused us for hours at the Gandamack...

...while I amused myself with an ancient British arsenal.

Those Brits and their colonialism...will they ever learn? ;)

Happy New Year, loyal readers!

Christmaas Tabrik!

2010-12-28T12:29:00.003-07:00

Even the lawyers got into the spirit

Yeah, so the title may seem outdated...but any good historian (and these days it takes a historian) can tell you that the Twelve Days of Christmas only started on December 25th. Besides, the phrase is cool in Dari, especially when pronouncing it "Kris-MAAS"...that's how I greeted people the past few days. And I had a few more pics to post anyway, before rambling on with my latest late-night thoughts...

A secret Santa surprised me with a leg lamp stocking...

"Not a fingah!"

One last smirk as Sgt Slaughter before the shave.

Carved roast beast

Served by a row of Navy Senior Chiefs, who I told:

LCDR "Slappy the Squid" Huvane will never believe this!

Let them eat cake, eh?

So, the mother of all western holidays is a couple of days in the rearview mirror...even in the States, most people have furiously moved on from 12/25 with puzzling speed; much less here, where it feels like it never came in the first place. Still, I was hoping to provide a rare back-to-back pair of posts, and would have done so if events requiring my attention didn't rapidly take over, and crush what little time I had left at the end of each day (i.e. 0200 hours). The snafu which I wrote about at the end of an exhausting 24th picked right back up again the next day -- I believe you call it Santa Day, or Discount Shopping Eve? -- and has continued to dog me and a host of others as we try to actually attend to other business. Although it's pretty amusing to learn of who else is involved in the back-and-forth now between a rogue general removed from his post and the Defense Ministry. As his friend and mine is the spokesperson for the ministry, it creates an odd situation, to say the least...especially when the process I'm advising ends up edited by President Karzai himself for release (unbeknownst to me at the time). Craziness.

"I will write this release for you, AfghaniDan."
"Kojak? Is that you?"

The calendar marches on, however...no matter how much I feel still needs to be done. I'm staring at a compressed time of just days, and feeling very mixed emotions over it. I am beyond eager to see my family, to lift the kids who were babies when I saw them last, to re-acquaint myself with old friends, to laugh about the shenanigans I missed, to tell the stories I haven't yet, to properly toast -- again and again -- my friend who has left this world, and the brave badasses who took the fight to the enemy in unforgiving mountains and deserts here.

We were all sportin' the 'stache at some point...

...and then there was one, mi primo O'Neill-Hernandez.

The "Highlander" of NTM-A PAO moustaches.

But I am truly sad to be leaving, at the same time. I've made friends here who I'll sorely miss, learned something new every day, enjoyed seeing the world once again through a completely different lens, and grown comfortable with pushing back those who would thwart the development in progress of our Afghan colleagues just so that they can impress their bosses and score a higher evaluation rating. Someone's got to stand in the doorway with a bat, or a hockey stick, when the "good idea fairy" comes calling.

Canuck mini-tree, with the hockey pencils I loved as a kid.

Canadian General Beare, Afghan General Karimi and U.S. General Patton (yeah, really) serve the troops chow in "the Goat."

"What's that? You want meat that's NOT camel??"

Oddly lighter in the upper lip...it's a Festivus miracle!

Christmaas Tabrik, Camp Eggers...

Kristmas Eve, Kabul

2010-12-24T16:46:00.002-07:00

Official holiday design of Nato Training Mission Afghanistan.

There are odd moments that become fully realized as odd in the mind later, and then there are those that strike you when they first appear. Christmastime in Afghanistan brings out quite a few of the latter, I've found...

Odd moment from earlier in the week:

Meetings interrupted by an ornery peacock.

Those who know me know that I am not the type that gets particularly excited for this season anyway, mainly because of how overwrought and stressful it can become. So spending one in a 'break' from the frenzy isn't that bad...or wouldn't be if I had two seconds here or there to enjoy it! And of course, it would be nice to have the option of dropping in on my family's gatherings, and those of close friends -- wherever the celebrations happen to be. On the other hand, not getting shot at is a Christmas blessing, too...

Press conferences in a lavish hall in Kabul: Always odd.

The "Holiday Afghani'stache": Odd, or oddly alluring?

So tonight, Christmas Eve, was just another night here for me until I had a chance to seek some meaning in it. I had returned to my cramped office from the lengthy Advisors' Council meeting, which eats up a chunk of the one Afghan off-day each week, to answer a flood of e-mails while keeping an eye on Tolo TV news (in Dari -- and no, I still can't understand much, but like to speculate about the rants they must be on), was anxious to get to the gym at some point, and of course breathing in the smoky dust air that is Kabul's extra layer of atmosphere all winter.

The chow hall likes to shove Christmas hype in my face.

Nothing's in them...I checked.

I found that the occasional reminders of another world had multiplied in the past couple of days, like the holiday music played from someone's computer...if I'm not in the mood to say "Turn that s--t off and quit reminding us of home!" (hey, there's no crusty gunny around here, and somebody's got to play the role). There has even been the occasional greeting from an Afghan colleague -- I had to give a big hug to Col. Ibrahim when he said a perfect "Merry Christmas" to me the other day. The TV is full of odd moments, of course, like the mandatory season's greetings from every commanding officer and sergeant major of every military organization in Europe and Asia on AFN. I mean, dude -- when you and your wife are striving for perfect-family perfection, maybe the two boys looking a little old for argyle sweaters and Santa hats have psychotic grins on their faces for good reason! That one scares me.

Christmas spirit, Camp Eggers style

Who knew water bottles could make a kick-ass tree?

There are the random strands of light here and there around camp, and there was even a midnight mass tonight in the clamshell (a type of large reinforced tent)...which I thought would be a cool connection to my ancestors in exotic places like the Bronx. Alas, there was no feast fortified by copious amounts of booze to follow it. Can't I get an Irish cultural waiver on something like this?

Midnight mass, Kabul

A brass section played carols the other day around camp...

Though they ignored my request for James Brown's "Hot Pants"

Today (you know, the 25th), it is back to the advisor grind. Which I hope means nothing like Thursday did. Since almost all of the government and my ministry would be off, I was hoping to work just a few issues with some colleagues who'd be in, make up a little lost ground on stalled initiatives, and if all went well, mayyybe even send a few more scarves to my sisters and nieces, or start to pack some of my own stuff to send. Instead it was the longest day (and part of a night) I'd yet spent at the Defense Ministry, working a press release with the head cheese himself, and a stressed-out general I advise, and one of our own generals, and some beat-up advisors, and a staff of Afghans who haven't bathed in some time. Only to come back to base at night and stare at all the work I was HOPING to do that day. C'est la vie. Still, there was a moment there, discussing wording with the Minister -- a larger than life figure -- when I thought to myself, "Yep...this is odd."

Defense Minister Wardak

Mostly though, I've thought this week about the hundreds of families who received a casket instead of their loved ones, this year alone. And those who've gone back to a changed life, one of struggle to recover from debilitating injuries. I was struck today by a CNN report showing wounded warriors in recovery in the States, all with prosthetics and other various injuries, who wanted only to express their support for their buddies still in the fight. That's such utterly tremendous loyalty, overcoming the very human tendency to look inward and dwell on the pain, so that comrades can take heart. To spend a Christmas even in the same country as heroes like that is an honor.

Merry Christmas to all of you, from your ever-dedicated rambler-in-servitude, the AfghaniDan...

Herat City

2010-12-18T14:44:00.004-07:00

This is not Photoshop, people...it's Afghanistan.

While out West, I got to pass through the regional capital, one of Afghanistan's most significant and historic cities. Herat is also an example of what can be done right today, in a number of ways. Its answers may not be easily duplicated elsewhere, but still it is relatively a model of stability, growth and even tolerance. It was as if we'd left Afghanistan completely and traveled beyond the border...

For contrast's sake, the rough landscape a few miles to the south...

Nicely paved roads, curbs, tree-lined dividers...and we weren't even in the city yet. I knew then that this would be unique.

Welcome to Herat! We're in the business now.

Military checkpoints don't slow down ANA vehicles much.

The Hari Rud, which flows from the Hindu Kush to the Caspian Sea.

My fellow passengers weren't nearly as giddy about that as I was...

"What the hell? Where am I?"

It didn't take long to see firsthand what I'd read and heard about...that Herat is its own thick slice of the country, doing quite well by doing things its own way. Does that mean it's all above board? Good God, no...we're talking about Afghanistan here. And just as interference from Pakistan plagues the East and South, the same can be said of Iranian interference in the West. But it's no more shady and entangled in various deals and alliances than anywhere else, from what I can tell...and it's prospering, safe and secure.

Even standalone buildings on the outskirts are done in style.

The villa of some connected guy or other, no doubt.

Speaking of, this could easily be a New Jersey diner.

Tuk-tuks galore. They swarm the streets of this fair city.

Pink glass: extremely popular commodity here.

Persian influence is evident in the architecture, and even the fashion. Rather than burqas here, women tend to wear patterned long robes that extend from a head covering, though with the face uncovered. Scandalous, I know...how on earth do the men contain their crazed lustful instincts?! Insanity. The pace here is busy; more western than you see in most of the country. Yet there was an almost jarring sense of order about the place.

A city park! With tall trees...lots of them!

Ornate traffic circle centerpieces are the norm...

Though sometimes the classic umbrella will do.

Tuk-tuk drivers: they are even on G-mail now.

Anyone else see a "Main St., USA" vibe here?

OK, not exactly...but I think you know what I mean.

Poppy palaces do abound here as well...

(the girl wears a typical regional robe garment)

And another new pink building stands tall.

My apologies...but it's beyond late, and there is much more to show of this startling city on Afghanistan's western frontier. I've decided to break it up into installments...am not seeing anything new in Kabul these days anyway. And the last thing you want is a gallery of moustache shots! Thanks for bearing with the slideshow...I'd have made a great substitute teacher.
Khodaafes, JagraniDan

Herat: Camp Stone

2010-12-16T15:20:00.005-07:00

AfghaniDan capturing sunrise - a RARE event

"Wide open skies." I must have written that a dozen times in my journal during my few days in Afghanistan's western province of Herat, last month. It was just the most striking feature of a region that is a far cry from Kabul in many ways...its high desert geography, its heavy Persian influence, its abundant optimism.

Thankfully we didn't have to take "the Rhino"...

After a day spent at Kabul's airport not snagging any seats on flights, but watching others come and go, I dragged Esmat back for a second try and we succeeded in getting out West. In the course of this trip, appropriately for pre-Thanksgiving, we had our own version of "Planes, Trains & Automobiles"...no trains (there are none in Afghanistan, though they are starting construction of one in the north), but different types of cargo planes, helicopters and vehicles were all involved in our getting around, not to mention crews of Afghan, American, Italian, German, Canadian and Spanish origin.

I-talian pride on display in their cargo plane.

Your in-flight viewing: lots of crumpled brown mountains.

(the sinister satanic overlay is just reflected webbing)

One crowded-ass C-130 gets anxious to unload.

Once again, I feel the need to point out how different travel is in Afghanistan -- even those parts considered stable -- from most places. Everything is a gamble: the flight itself, the ground transportation to or from airports on each end, the lodging -- if that's even an option when unexpectedly getting stuck somewhere overnight. For an adventurer, it's a blast. For anyone with a burden of responsibility, though, without any time to waste...it's a bitch. I'll consider myself in both categories, so it's kind of a wash.

Passengers, Mr. MRAP will be providing your flank security today...

"The West is the Best" (word up, Jim Morrison...)

Edge of the Perimeter

The drive from the airport base to Camp Stone just goes to show how completely different a Kabul tour of duty is from one anywhere else in country. All the time I've spent on the roads here, and this was my first ride in a heavy mine resistant protective vehicle on this deployment. We get around by up-armored SUVs in the big city...or regular Ford Rangers when you're really throwing caution to the wind. Our counterparts face those risks every day -- should they do so alone if we truly are their 'partners'?

The ANA gate is always done with style points...

And the style often includes holy Quran text.
Convenient by the base exit, no? That virtuous talk casts a downer on the weekend party plans!

Now THAT is how you do a gate, American style
(cue the theme to Team America...)

Inside the gate, workers await.

Just inside the Coalition camp from the Afghan side, there was this large area of spare parts and what appeared to just be junk...so naturally by the second day, I had attempted to sound the theme from Sanford & Son repeatedly, each time we passed it. When Esmat asked what I was humming, I did my best to explain why a TV show from the 70's about a crotchety junkyard owner and his son was so dear to me. Finally I gave up and tried to demonstrate what it looked like when Fred Sanford would fake a heart attack.

"Elizabeth, I'm coming for ya!"
Esmat: "Shut up, dummy!"

FOB life, once again.

The US troops receive a pep talk from their commander.

I'll be honest -- among the highlights of visiting remote training sites far from the land of headquarters is the shift in rank & privilege. A greater percentage of troops tend to have 'real jobs' out there, with fewer in the category of being unable to explain what purpose they provide. It's where the rubber meets the road, as opposed to where staff members are constantly being added simply because they can be. There is ONE colonel on that post (seen above), and perhaps a couple lieutenant colonels. It dawned on me then that O-5 may be the most heavily represented rank in all of Camp Eggers, with O-6 just behind it...which is absolutely insane.

Camp memorial to Sgt. 1st Class John Stone

Viva Italia! And everyone else, andiamo!

Another memorial...to memorials.

The prominence of Italy's flag in the above photo (by virtue of sunlight and wind direction, not favoritism) is appropriate for coalition forces in the west of Afghanistan. Until recently, the Italians had command of much of the region, and they still do play a very prominent role. Spain is a bigger player out there as well, and it once again threw me for that Euro vibe to feel like every few minutes you would step into a different region. Unfortunately, they were not in charge of the dining facilities -- which were still above par.

Nebraska?

More Nebraska?

As I said, the landscapes were a treat.

More to come...

And what kind of son would I be if I failed to mention that it's AfghaniMom's birthday? So then, wishing a happiest natal anniversary to the woman saintly enough to bring me and 7 other chattering travelers into this world! Not only that, but to bear each deployment and extended journeying with grace, understanding, and tons upon tons of nothing but support. Love you, Ma...

One last shot of Jameson's before heading out...
(Back in March -- ironically, I had to shave the beard!)

Dog days of December

2010-12-11T14:23:00.002-07:00

Sometimes, between the Conex containers and dilapidated buildings, even Camp Eggers can offer a glimpse of a nice wintry view...

This is a strange time of year to experience Kabul...and by "experience", I mean try to appreciate while avoiding going completely crazy. I'm approaching 7 months of the same tiny camp -- can you blame me?

Quebecois buddy Yan Poirier says goodbye...to Zorro.

The nights have been cold for a while now, and since the Marine Corps didn't see fit to outfit me with the cold-weather jacket that every other Devil Dog was issued, I layer it up when I can under my utilities. That solution will have to suffice into January, but it's no big deal -- every building of ours has heat. It's so different than the picture that so many back home and elsewhere in the world have of service in Afghanistan...a picture that is accurate for the average Afghan. The norm here is to conserve what fuel you have available for heating your home, or just a room of your home, in the evening and morning hours, and throw on a blanket or two to keep you through the night. The way many of us think of operations in the field or camping trips -- that's simply life in the Winter in Afghanistan, particularly in the mountains.

Esmat demonstrates with me that cold is nothing.

Now THAT is how you filter air pollution!

More jarring than the change in weather here is air quality, which is even lower than usual. Each evening, a fog of smoke, dust & dirt settles thickly in the air, hanging around through the early morning hours (meaning when I finish this and step outside, it will greet me again -- so I got that going for me, which is nice). Then another full round of it sets in at sunrise and lingers for a few more morning hours, reminding you that you are breathing in particles of everything Kabul. Fecal matter is often rumored to be one of those significant components...and when it seems like you've been breathing in a peat fire for hours, that's not hard to believe. Just part of the fun, really (though I must admit that I sometimes enjoy the campfire smell).

Bitches be sniffin' round here! (I know, totally tasteless.) Casper was STARVING today and super attentive. She doesn't eat; she inhales.

Iranian soil, in between a few of our compounds. Go figure.

The insurgents in their nightcaps have all settled in for a long winter's nap...well, not exactly, but I had to work some holiday theme in somehow. Although the fighting season has largely wound down in some of the most hard-fought areas (nowhere near here), the roadside bombs -- and the IEDs in canals, fields and alleys -- continue to target troops and civilians in places like Helmand and Kandahar provinces, and increasingly so in other places they have been pushed to. Not a day goes by without a few incidents, or many. Sometimes there are strong signs that the training effort is paying dividends. Today could have been a spectacularly bad one for the coalition: suicide bombers in vehicles attempted to wreck havoc in both Sangin (Helmand, in the southwest) and in Kunduz (in the north). One survived a guard's shooting to detonate, and though he wounded 5 Afghan soldiers, he claimed none beyond his own. In the other, an alert guard shot dead the attempted killer before he could act, saving countless lives. That actually happens more often than you may think. Sometimes progress has to be measured in such ways, I suppose.

At ISAF, they measure progress in flags.

The "Nordic Palace" is but one example.

This guy is as confused as I am by the sign...

Afghanistan is puzzling? No shit.

In my own corner of the effort to establish effective, independent and sustainable Afghan institutions, it's a helluva lot safer...though perhaps even harder to measure progress. This past week demonstrated that all the initiatives of the moment we deem crucial to building Public Affairs capacity quickly fall by the wayside, when the spokesperson says something our generals don't like in reaction to a tragic friendly-fire incident. Damage control mode takes over, and my job becomes an exhausting series of attempts to convince my own side that working with my advisees, who do trust me, on more effective approaches for future incidents is much more in line with our long-term goals than reverting to greater dependence, control, and ultimately, much more time spent here by others who will follow.

In the office of the great and powerful Gen. Azimi...

Continuing my Pashtun 'Stache-Off with Uncle Murad.

The passage of time gets strange at this point. If one marks by sports season (and really, why the hell not?), I left home when the long baseball season was just beginning...and now the World Series is so far in the rearview mirror that the annual Winter Meetings have already concluded. There are just a couple weeks of NFL action left before the playoffs, and I left prior to Spring mini-camps. It's gotten to where I catch a rare moment of ESPN in the gym, see two cities listed on the ticker, and wonder which sport the score reflects. But those are American pasttimes. The big news around here was the continued success, still incredibly unlikely, of Afghanistan's national cricket team...following the much celebrated first-ever win over Pakistan in international play last month, and a second-place finish in that tournament, came the first Intercontinental Title for the Afghans! A huge deal once again for a team born just a few years ago on trashed lots in Kabul, played only by former refugees who learned the game in Pakistan. Now THAT is progress.
(And no, I still don't know what the hell they are talking about when describing the action...any of it.)

Afghanistan Win Intercontinental Cup

Loss

2010-12-08T14:34:00.002-07:00

Right up front, I'll tell you that I debated this one intensely with myself. How could I write about it...how farcical could it be to describe my state over something that didn't happen here, when warriors in this country lose friends, brothers, comrades-in-arms every week? Well, Vince wasn't that last one. But he was a comrade-in-soul. And losing him bears a great deal of relevance to something personal, as this blog has turned out to sometimes be. It would be dishonest in a way to not pay some sort of brief, surely inadequate tribute. And besides that, I doubt I'll ever put together those long-delayed recaps of last month's excursions west and north until I do so.

My friend Vince has passed away, and I can't so much as make the trip home to say goodbye the way I'd like to. Vince was so much more than my buddy of countless concerts, Giants games, ski trips and occasions of just grabbing a needed beer in a nondescript Irish pub...we had a hell of a lot in common, and a lot of deep conversations about life. Vince had the sweetest nature of just about anyone I've ever had the pleasure to know, and between that and his off-the-wall sense of humor, he was simply someone who always made everyone around him feel better. God, I hope he felt at least some of that love in return.

What does this have to do with the experience of spending a heavy stretch of time deployed? For one thing, there's the universal feeling of loss...that shitty, gnawing feeling of a gaping hole in your gut where something used to be. I haven't experienced the shock of losing someone alongside me in combat. Hell, the only combat I even experienced lasted for probably just a few minutes. So I fully understand your snickering if you're a hardened veteran of countless firefights who's listening to a desk jockey in Kabul moan about his friend back in New York.

What I do know is what it feels like to receive a bewildering, disorienting note informing you that one of your greatest friends is alive no more...to frantically call your parents in the urge to know something, anything...to make the futile stab at trying to understand a "why" when you don't know jack yet. I know how low you can sink when you realize you'd have been home if you didn't extend, somewhere in the States, maybe even in the right place at the right time to somehow alter the course of the most tragic circumstance imaginable. If you think that feeling is easier to shake because I'm half a world away, you're absolutely wrong.

"In my life, things have a way of growing downward...
So I don't know...if I can watch myself be a coward...
Again." (Warren Haynes, 'In My Life')

Vince was one of those friends I was most looking forward to seeing after I got back from Afghanistan...it seems like only yesterday we treated me like a damn king in New York when I returned four years ago: "Deuce, you're the King!" he'd literally and enthusiastically say over and over. It was going to be a challenging December anyway, but one in which the intense workload of finishing a long tour strong and completely turning over three jobs at once was going to largely keep my mind off the holidays. Now it seems like an abyss, as New Year's Eve looms -- too many memories of this time of year spent in the joyous company of Vinsanity. I can only imagine how difficult the season will be for his family.

That's not the whole story of this past week...I've received an outpouring of thoughtful sentiment from some unexpected places; I've discovered that I can still work exhaustive hours through sometimes crippling grief; and I've had my spirits buoyed countless times by family and friends who made me laugh, or took my mind off the sadness, or helped me see the light...at least for a moment. Of course the bizarro live theater that is this place doesn't stop, or even slow down. But now I'll emerge from a block of work briefly believing that my friend is just fine...only to have to process again what has happened.

I've never had a friend quite like Vince -- in all his random nicknaming of everyone, his sheer joy in each good time, and his incredible compassion for others -- and even the tons of memories from those good times don't do much to plug the emptiness. He suffered more than I knew; more than anyone knew. But that's not what I'll think on. My hope in the darkness is that he's smiling...and that his pain is eased.

"Hold on to me if you need to...I know the river's deep and wide.
Trust in me, I'll see you through...and I'll be there, on the other side."
(Gov't Mule, 'Frozen Fear')

Roze-e Tashakuri

2010-11-27T16:01:00.016-07:00

"You got a problem with that?"
Col. Ibrahim, Col. Asif, AfghaniDan, Gen. Azimi, Maj. Daoud

Thanksgiving in Kabul, 2010...

The post title "Roze-e Tashakuri" essentially translates to "Day of Thanks." There is a great deal for which I am thankful this year, and Thursday presented some pretty unexpected reminders of some I hadn't considered. It was the designated day for a high-level conference and working group between my advisees at the Defense Ministry, their counterparts from Pakistan, and a number of folks from ISAF (the NATO-led coalition command). You know it was an odd Thanksgiving when the highlights were: Seeing your general and colonels in uniform instead of their usual suits; appearing on NBC's Today show in an extended crowd shot outside of where you eat your meals each day; and deciding that the Afghan feast you had for lunch was far better than the "traditional" dinner everyone awaited with great anticipation.

The honor guard turned out for AfghaniDan...

"Does anyone know how to just end this thing? Anyone?"

It turned out that I was thankful to spend a holiday like this one -- so sacred for family functions in the US -- with "my boys" from the ministry. It is extremely rare for all of the Dagarwaals (Colonels), Dagarmans (LtCols) and the Major General whom I advise to be gathered together in one place, and I considered myself really fortunate to be there with them. Perhaps it was sealed by all of the "main commander" ribbing from Asif (who loves to call me that after General Azimi dropped that on me in a meeting), or the back-and-forth whispering throughout the meeting with utterly insane Daoud (who is going to break my ribs one of these days with his "I can crush you" Pashtun bear hugs), or the re-entrance of Azimi himself -- after all the VIPs had gone -- to ask "Where is the Major?", since he hadn't yet wished me a happy holiday. (Story by that Huvane guy who's always writing about Azimi...)

Tripartite meeting highlights Afghan-Pakistani cooperation

Now when you read that, you can probably decipher that "lively discussions" refers to squabbles...it got pretty interesting when each side of the border wanted to point out the other's culpability for the spread of ammonium nitrate (a key ingredient in IEDs). And less you think that it's all sunshine and roses -- though it was plenty sunny outside and the dying rose bushes were still holding on -- there were some comments shared with me by some Afghan colleagues who were...let's say...less than enthusiastic about their Pakistani counterparts being here. But of all people, it was Daoud who put it into context for the grumblers..."Today, we are friends. Today, we shake hands." Wish I could do justice to the fake smile he wore for that remark; it was classic!

My posse -- heads of the "3 families" of PAO -- and a wild card.

One funny moment I must share: At one point in the meeting, which had run almost 2 hours past its scheduled break for lunch, the Afghans brought in a folding table from outside to set food upon. As they draped a tablecloth over it, and then those buffet-serving dealies (you know, with the top that pulls open in an overly unwieldy way?), I thought immediately of Snoopy setting up Thanksgiving dinner outside in that Peanuts holiday classic. I haven't seen that in quite a few years, yet still, folding table + tablecloth + food = memories of that scene. And there it was, in the "Tea House" of the Ministry of Defense, Kabul.

Oh, the things I do for my country and world peace.

It never turned out to be much of a holiday in the labor sense, but there were a bunch of enjoyable moments back at the base too, squeezed in between the work and more work. Busy is always good here, especially during something like Thanksgiving: it wasn't until my 2am phone call to the family when I really remembered what I was missing.

One of those things "missing": alcohol.

Some other things for which I am thankful:

- My team. Esmat, Johnny Kabul, Pam, Joe, Qais and Dave are the greatest people I could possibly work with. I'd serve alongside any one of them again, anywhere. Working arrangements are always temporary in a business such as this, but this is one team I'd have looked to keep intact somehow.

Dave, Joe & Pam from the team, and good friend Senior Chief Garcia, enjoy turkey dinner Goat-style (that's the name of the chow hall).

- Donations to my moustache fund. People, it's not easy keeping that hideous rat on my lip, particularly as it tries to grow to some respectability while staying within strict Marine grooming regulations. But some of you have shown great generosity already in giving to the fight against prostate cancer...the worthy cause which ended my career-long refusal to grow a deployment 'stache. And you honor this effort when you do! (It's not too late -- chip in if you like...)

My Movember Mospace

Lt.Col. Arif and I support Mo'vember.

- Hot water (usually). Bountiful food (though "edible" can often be considered a stretch). And a culture which fosters a tradition such as senior officers serving up food to the troops. Some of our higher-ups got their Afghan principals into the act as well, in a few of those forward posts...where generals from our side and theirs stood side by side, dishing out grub to the soldiers, sailors, airmen, Marines and civilians. Pretty cool, that.

As an Irishman, should I consider this reparations?

Col. Nigel Jefferson (UK) & Maj. Cheney serve up grub.

- The fun side of deployment. I would never get caught up any more in a television broadcast the way that I wound up enjoying Lester Holt's live sequences from the Today show yesterday. Now, I'd rather they were further downrange, bringing the excitement to some grunts living out of a true combat outpost in the badlands...but since they were here, it was fun to check out. And to broadcast this unfortunate dirty sanchez look to the American public! (Supposedly this clip below shows me...but I have no ability to view video...anyone want to verify that this link even works?)

Today Show Video Player - Camp Eggers Thanksgiving

Lester prepares to go live...and I prepare to nod at the camera.

...the host then greets an attention-starved crowd.

- A position of responsibility, at such a crucial juncture for Afghanistan. Sure, if I've learned nothing else, it is that time is continuous and so is human history...so maybe none of this will much matter in the grand scheme of things in a century, or even a half. But the moment is palpable here. And though it's hard to see through many daily frustrations, I've got an important job doing meaningful work (some of you who comment have really helped me see that -- I thank YOU too!).

Which is the one from Jersey again?

Also on Thanksgiving, in another part of town...

Bashary himself praises Joe for HIS meaningful work.

- Those who keep us safe. As much as I lament being here in the bubble of Headquarters land while comrades in arms put their lives on the line every day in some parts of the country, I am thankful for what I have. The forces which keep Kabul safe have done an amazing job...I shudder to think of how ridiculous our already-ridiculous force protection policies would be if it were actually still a dangerous place. I'm not being shot at, or going out on patrols through mine-infested farmland...and for that I do give thanks.

Marine Corps corporal in a firefight earlier this year...

- My amazing family and great friends...who support me every step of the way, who understand when I say I'll be extending my time in Afghanistan, who take care of needs I often don't even think of, and who manage to make me feel as if I'm there when I call. I miss you all.

Roze-e Tashakuri Mubarak!

Eid al-Adha

2010-11-19T13:43:00.004-07:00

Johnny Kabul doesn't see the hand of AfghaniDan...

Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome back the holiday of EID for an encore! That's a rough translation of the banner above...in my imagination, anyway.

Truthfully, it just concluded...but the past three days (four when you tack on the preparation day, which gets declared a national holiday each time anyway) was "Big Eid," which follows Eid al-Fitr on the calendar by about 70 days. Eid al-Adha (Festival of Sacrifice) is all about the feast, commemorating the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son for God...which ended up in smiles and feasting all around. Some of my guys were out on Dushanbe (Monday) selecting and purchasing the cow for their respective gatherings. This holiday immediately follows the Hajj, the annual pilgrimage by Muslims to Mecca...which meant that we saw lots of footage of Saudi Arabia on Afghan TV recently.

Since the locals were on holiday most of the week, yesterday turned into "puppy day" for a few of us...and it was as delightful as that sounds. Really it was a relaxing lunch away from the rat race with our Indian friends at AINA, an inspirational Paris-based company which describes itself as a "third-generation humanitarian association". They employ hundreds of Afghans and work with countless more in doing the work they do...never taking a dime of even a grant in return. The stated mission sums it up well: Aina promotes independent media development and cultural expression as a foundation of democracy.

Kabul street scene, quiet during Eid.

"What is this, a school built for ANTS?"

(you Zoolander fans should appreciate this)

The Daddy Dog dances.

I don't usually plug; these guys are just that good, both at what they do and in their humanist philosophy. But this time -- in addition to the great company and delicious Indian lunch -- there was an added bonus: PUPPIES. They found that five newborn furballs had joined them in the compound, about 25 days ago. They were the softest, gentlest pups, when they weren't busy nipping at my boots or hands, or mauling each other all over the driveway. It was hilarious...and utterly adorable.

Somehow, Triumph the Insult Comic Dog came to mind.

Pam attempts to break up a savage attack...

While I check the pulse on this cuddly rag doll.

Puppy take-downs are the best!

Tired scrappers take a breather...

Then get right back at it. That's a classic pin!

I assessed the goon two minutes for boarding.

The mama dog approved.

He chose his own penalty box.

Happy Eid al-Adha from Kabul!

If you'd like to learn more about AINA, please see their link below. There are some absolutely brilliant photos in their galleries, some of the best I have ever seen of Afghanistan...

Aina World

And if you'd like to know why I'll be growing an increasingly disturbing dark fuzz above my upper lip, please, read on! Though joining the party late, I decided to join my cousin Tim in raising awareness and donations for prostate cancer research by participating in "Movember." We'll grow our moustaches for 30 days minimum, looking ridiculous so that people ask why...and I for one have long resisted the deployed-'stache habit. Please check out the link below for more info or to donate to a worthy cause...

http://us.movember.com/mospace/1275694/

I look something like this with a 'stache. Finding a photo with the beard hidden is the best I can do - since you don't want RedneckiDan, who awaits on the page. As I said, ridiculous.

School's out

2010-11-19T12:28:00.005-07:00

The flamingos have taken to the camp...

Last week was the conclusion of our latest Public Affairs Course in Kabul, and the graduation was appropriately filled with ceremony and speeches. This version of the course was a great leap forward than the previous ones though: much more practical application and less theory, more testing and evaluation throughout, and my Afghan colleagues even taught a few days of it themselves.

Colonel? Nope...on this day he is Professor Paiman.

The sign explains that the 'Media Center' is inside.

Not exactly Advertising 101, but c'mon - it's Kabul.

Hafiz takes charge. His development over the past few months as a deputy spokesman has been incredible. People on our side tend to forget that there are NATURALS out there.

The joyful "I serve Afghanistan!" moment I can never get enough of. They had each of us present a few certificates, a very cool gesture.

Navy Lt. Joe Holstead, more responsible than anyone else for the successful strides the Afghan army and police have made in Public Affairs, spoke a few words on what would be his last graduation after a year of service here. BZ, Joe!

While I've been known to rail against the incessant coverage of graduations around here (it's true -- there is a massive amount of graduation obsession in this command), I simply had to show off the one by my guys. And yes, I suppose every advisor and mentor feels the same way when it's theirs. So, the Dude abides...

This patch -- the coolest I've ever seen -- was commissioned by Johnny Kabul, aka John House, my senior statesman, trusted advisor-to-the-advisor, and workhorse. Even though we Marines don't need no stinkin' patches, I'd be tempted to attach a strip of awful velcro to my sleeve just to attach that baby. "Far out."

Incidentally, the fact that Marines don't wear patches but the other services do (yes, old Navy salts, it's true - your brethren are in those awful velcro-overloaded Army uniforms) creates some humorous moments...like when the commanding general of your entire multinational joint organization says that you better be literally wearing the NTM-A patch on your sleeve. I like to look at my arm in those moments and shrug, then raise my hand and ask, "Can I go home, then?"

Kickin' back over chai and sweet cakes.

Kinda like "Miller time" in Afghanistan.

Hangin' with Holstead, Huvane & Hafiz.
(coming soon to daytime TV near you)

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Please read this if you have a moment, or even if you don't. It's an outstanding essay by my friend Victoria, who I was fortunate enough to meet here in Camp Eggers while doing the advisor thing...and it's easy to see why it was voted the winner of the "Welcome Home Essay Contest" by the American Women Veterans.

The Nights in Kabul Are Beautiful

I especially liked these lines...

Though the best of intentions may be from where we start, I have come to realize our objectives are almost always lost in metrics and want for numbers.

I have learned that it will take time, perhaps more time than we are willing to give. We have an obligation to be honest with ourselves and what, as a nation, we are willing to give.

The former Rose Garden, suddenly stripped of life.

I learned that three cups of chai is just one meeting.

I learned that to get anything done in Afghanistan you need to know somebody, but that took me back to NY, “I know a guy…”, which reminded me that perhaps Jim Henson was up to something in The Muppets Take Manhattan, “peoples is peoples”.

Progress, around here. Another triple CONNEX.

I learned that coming home can be lonelier than I ever imagined.

Regarding that last one, my return won't be until the new year -- it got pushed a bit further once again due to the timing of my eventual successor's arrival. But I already remember that feeling from last time. Even with the love of family and good friends, it's a very strange thing to uproot from what's become your reality and adjust to one you once knew...or another new one entirely. It always is, for anyone who moves...but when you leave something like this "war" and it's still going strong, you start to wonder immediately about the initiatives on which you worked so hard, or the personalities you only truly began to figure out after six months. It's not hard to see why some people never leave. (Don't worry -- them people ain't me!)

Kabul street, November 2010.
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Remembrance

2010-11-12T15:23:00.004-07:00

As most readers of this blog likely knew, Thursday (Nov. 11) was Veterans Day in the United States. It was also Remembrance Day in Canada, the UK, Australia, South Africa and other Commonwealth countries; and still known as Armistice Day in France, Belgium and New Zealand. I wasn't able to attend the ceremony at Camp Eggers due to another ceremony -- the graduation of our latest class of Afghan Public Affairs Officers and NCOs (story to follow) -- but still enjoyed experiencing the commemoration of such a day while here.

Vets Day 2010: Public Affairs Course 5-10 graduation.

Ironically for Afghanistan, where the cultivation of them is at the heart of many of the country's problems, the poppy is the widely recognized symbol of this holiday. Canadian officers here began wearing their poppies on the last weekend in October, and wore them until the 11th, in accordance with tradition. More on the day below:

Reason for Remembrance Day (Canada)

Remembrance Day commemorates those who died in the First and Second World Wars and the Korean War. It is held every November 11 throughout the British Commonwealth, beginning in 1919. Originally called Armistice Day, it commemorated the end of the First World War on Monday, November 11, 1918 at 11 a.m.: the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month.

From 1923 to 1931, Armistice Day was held on the Monday of the week in which November 11 fell. Thanksgiving was also celebrated on this day. In 1931, M.P. Allan Neill introduced a bill to hold Armistice Day on a fixed day - November 11. During the bill's introduction, it was decided the word Remembrance would be used instead of Armistice. The bill passed and Remembrance Day was conducted on November 11, 1931. Thanksgiving Day was moved to October 12 that year.

In many other countries, people gather on November 11 to honour the courage and devotion of brave men and women who made the supreme sacrifice of dying for their country. It marks the observance of a day to remember and honour those who died, as well as to give thanks for the sacrifices of those who came back from serving their country.

The poppy's significance to Remembrance Day is a result of Canadian military physician John McCrae's poem "In Flanders Fields." The poppy emblem was chosen because of the poppies that bloomed across some of the worst battlefields of Flanders in World War I, their red colour an appropriate symbol for the bloodshed of trench warfare.

National Independence Day

Narodowe Święto Niepodległości is a public holiday in Poland celebrated every year on 11 November to commemorate the anniversary of Poland's assumption of independent statehood in 1918 after 123 years of partitions by Austria-Hungary, Germany, and Russia. The foundation of the Second Polish Republic is considered a key event by many Poles.

Veterans’ Day

Veterans Day is an annual United States holiday honoring military veterans. President Woodrow Wilson first proclaimed an Armistice Day for November 11, 1919. In proclaiming the holiday, he said:

"To us in America, the reflections of Armistice Day will be filled with solemn pride in the heroism of those who died in the country's service and with gratitude for the victory, both because of the thing from which it has freed us and because of the opportunity it has given America to show her sympathy with peace and justice in the councils of the nations."

On June 1, 1954, the United States replaced Armistice with Veterans in order to recognize all veterans, and it has been known as Veterans Day since.

Even the chow hall goes all out for Nov. 11.

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Unfortunately, you don't have to look far to find places where there is too much bloodshed today.

The brief story below is from a reporter with 3/5...Third Battalion, Fifth Marine Regiment, which has been suffering heavy losses from the day they took the reins from the Brits in Sangin. A notorious crossroads and district capital of Helmand province, Sangin had already acquired a brutal reputation -- and is proving itself deserving of that notoriety.

"The tactics keep changing because they're smart and they watch us," said Esrey. "They don't have TV here. We're their TV."

Marines learn lessons from tragedy in Afghanistan

Please keep the warriors of 3/5, and all of those in harm's way, in your thoughts and prayers as they face the deadly danger they face each day. And here's wishing a belated happy Veterans Day, solemn Remembrance Day, and joyeux Armistice Day to all of the veterans out there.

Camp Eggers, Kabul: November 11, 2010.

Jarhead Birthday

2010-11-10T12:27:00.044-07:00

From the halls of Montezuma to the shores of Tripoli...or in my update, from the halls of Kabul's M.O.D. to the sands of Lashkargah.

From the rooftop of Marine Corps Central Command (Forward) HQ in Kabul airport, taken back in July at an all-Marine BBQ.

Today the Marine Corps celebrates 235 years of kicking ass as the ~~nation's~~ world's premier fighting force. While that description seems a pretty far cry from what I do on a daily basis, at least I sometimes get to feel like a Marine here. And exchanging birthday greetings all day with fellow Leathernecks, sometimes even receiving them from Navy, Army and Air Force brethren, makes for a special day in NATO Training Mission Afghanistan.

A squad of Marines approaches the highest flag in all of KAIA.
The residents, naturally, were nervous at the sight of what looked to be reinforcements.

I did not catch the birthday festivities at ISAF today, swamped in catch-up work after completing a exhausting journey back to my command yesterday. I returned from a week split between missions in Herat, the primary province of western Afghanistan, and Mazar-e-Sharif, the capital of the northern region. It was an eye-opening getaway, and good for the Marine (not to mention wandering) soul to be out of Kabul for a bit...I look forward to posting photos and descriptions of those adventures.

An Afghanistan promotion for one lucky new Lt.Col.

Today I found myself wishing that I'd stayed a few more days in Mazar, where I was asked if I'd be around to take part in the birthday commemoration they would have in Camp Mike Spann, as the senior Marine...a far cry from where I fall in any pecking order around here. But anxious to not leave issues and meetings on others' shoulders for too long, I made the painful call to return. For any of you who haven't seen it, try to catch a USMC birthday cake-cutting sometime...as you might expect, it's full of ritual and camaraderie (aka, ball-breaking), and truly unlike any other organizational anniversary you might find.

A memorial to Capt. Spann, where he valiantly gave his life.

Mike Spann, incidentally, was a Marine. Widely known as the first American casualty of this Afghan war, he was a paramilitary operations chief for the CIA when killed while fighting the Taliban in Mazar-e-Sharif, nine years ago this month. I'll post an entire blog with my photos of the massive fort complex where that happened, but found it particularly appropriate to be there so close to the Corps birthday, as Spann served as a Marine officer for six years before joining "the agency."

The memorial reads:

In honor of Mike Spann (1969-2001), a hero who sacrificed his life for freedom, for Afghanistan, for the United States of America. We will not forget his courage or his life. May God be with him and bless him.

I'll sign off with a simple wish...that you pause and reflect upon how blessed we are to be Marines, if you are one, and if you're not -- how fortunate we are to have the Corps on our side! Warriors like Mike Spann, like Cpl. Jason Dunham (Medal of Honor recipient, Iraq, 2004), and like Cpl. Dakota Meyer (just recently recommended for Medal of Honor, Afghanistan, 2009) don't come along every day. Semper Fi.

Living the good life, yet wishing we were in Helmand.

Hallows away...

2010-10-31T13:26:00.130-06:00

Happy Halloween, everyone...or in Afghanistan, simply Happy Yakshanbe (Sunday). Although in a city which mashes together traditional garb such as turbans with dudes in shiny purple suits on a daily basis -- and whose women are often veiled if not covered completely in ghostly burqas -- you could make the case that there are always some folks in costume.

Not only did their costumes kick ass, but the jams were fierce!

It's odd that I'm writing with the date in mind, because it wasn't relevant at all in my workday. Once again I spent what would be an American holiday, or at least day of rest, on an advisor's assessment mission with the two colleagues who accompanied me to the Commando Brigade. This time we visited the Afghan National Army's 201st Corps, headquartered just outside of Kabul.

A rare instance in which I got away with a gate shot.

Now I join Afghans in looking mean for the group photo.

Each time a holiday rolls around lately, I play a mental game of recalling where I was for the past few...or how many different locations I've spent them in. Independence Day (the one on July 4) was a good one for this game: Just in Marine service, I've spent two in Afghanistan, one in Israel, one in Peru, one in Hong Kong, one on exercises in Twentynine Palms (Calif.) and another on exercises in Camp Lejeune (NC). Since I'm older than 12 and without kids of my own, I don't give a rat's behind about spending Halloween in a 'combat zone' -- aside from missing out on scandalously revealing costumes -- but Thanksgiving will surely be tougher. I just extended my deployment by another month in order to properly transition to my successor, so November will come and go with me still in place.

Departing advisor Capt. Ridley is recognized by Paiman...

...and properly gives the Afghan shout out.

Trick or Treat!

In October, I spent a birthday deployed for the first time in over a decade -- the upside of flexibility as an individual augment in the Reserve, as well as just some fortunate timing. That does not count Marine Forces Europe '09 (Stuttgart) -- which, despite the vastly superior locale, was actually much lonelier than this one (Danke schoen, you unfriendly Tubingers!). So I've got to give huge props to my team, who managed to make this Month of AfghaniDan so memorable once they found out...and ironically, two of them sprechen sie Deutsch. (Wish to correct my grammar? Great! Just drop a comment.) We ended up with two gatherings in order to get full team participation...and a bonus dinner with Spokesperson Bashary in the mix, at Kabul's 5-star hotel. I'm not trying to ham it up any more than usual below; there are just a ton of me photos because the cameras were out of my hands and they wouldn't let me escape any shots.

The Wild Bunch.

Esmat & I dig "jar cake" (thank you, Jami!)

The surprise party I never expected gets started.

Dave and the K-Bar help me get it divvied up.

Banana-custard-chocolate-something goodness.

On the topic of special occasions, last week I voted by e-ballot for the first time...in the U.S. elections, that is. I stayed neutral in the Afghan one. Of course there must be a number of first-timers, since it's only this year that a mere 16 states began allowing it for deployed military and others, including government employees. The practice is still controversial -- I know various voters' and privacy groups have weighed in on the risks of fraud and ID theft -- but I've got to say that it was convenient and downright practical for us. Even the postcard applications for ballots by mail take forever, and following the process the whole snail mail way turns off a lot of potential voters who aren't exactly thinking election in July! The info wasn't readily available anywhere, but the folks at Boulder County helped out...my hat's off to them for helping me be a good citizen (for once).

Yep, this is actually Kabul...Serena Hotel, Oct. 5th.

The Cult of Bashary: his hair, of course, was perfect.

World's scariest -- and best -- kebab chef.

Fareed joins me in scarfing down serving after serving.

The soul-crushing return to the gates of Eggers.

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Please allow me to take the unusual step here of plugging something that's not self-serving, from Tim at Esquire Magazine. See below, and get in touch with them if your family fits the bill...

ESQUIRE MAGAZINE VETERANS PROJECT

For a major photographic portfolio in an upcoming issue, Esquire is looking for multigenerational families of combat veterans: sons or daughters who served in Afghanistan or Iraq, fathers (Vietnam), and grandfathers (World War II or Korea) who each served in combat and are willing to be photographed together representing three generations of American military history. Esquire has a long tradition of honoring American troops in wartime and we hope to add this unique portfolio of veteran families to that history.

If you and your living father and grandfather (or son and grandson) have served America at war and would like to participate in this project, please send a note with your contact information to the Esquire Veterans Project at veteransproject@esquire.com.

Thank you.
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Last but not least...
An Oktoberfest memento (you rock, Jess & Saskia!)

Q&A

2010-10-29T15:48:00.003-06:00

"Dear AfghaniDan: What season is it over there?"

It's the best season of all...Pomegranate Season! Having only known the juice made from this fruit, I'm really digging the abundance of them in Afghanistan at this time of year. The above photo was not mine...none of my attempts to catch a pom cart or pom stand have turned out well, but they are everywhere in the city. Since I saw it as an obligation, I dug into one the other day and haven't looked back.

Esmat shows how to open up the sucker.

Eat with great care, I was warned...for this stuff STAINS.

Sweet messy goodness. I'm hooked.

"Dear AfghaniDan: What's the weather like in Kabul?"

I have an inability to quit photographing roses.

It's quite pleasant, in fact. The nights have turned cool to occasionally cold, but the days still warm up. It's a lot like Denver, honestly, only a bit more mild and drier...as in no precipitation, ever. There were two occasions in the past few days when it sprinkled a couple of drops -- not even enough to cover a leaf -- yet still, it felt amazing. I have felt actual raindrops three times in the past 5.5 months, which is weird. About a week ago we had a hell of a dust storm, which toppled a lot and coated everyone & everything in dirt, yet never brought rain. It reminded me of the thunderstorms in Khost, which were usually all thunder and wind. Thanks for asking, stranger!

It's nice enough to practice video outdoors.

(A scene from the Basic Public Affairs Course.)

Mock interviews are always fun...

Unless there are explosives in the camera.

(see: Massoud, Ahmad Shah)

In fact, it's the perfect weather for a drive around the neighborhood and its "poppy palaces"...ornate houses so named for the strong suspicion that only income augmented by drug profits could possibly afford to have them built. Of course, some turn out to be funded by "development" money...that goes a long way here, too.

Poppy one.

Poppy two.

Poppy three.

Poppy school? Sure, why not.

"Dear AfghaniDan: Why all the links lately, and what's with the increased focus on national and international level happenings?"

When at a Soviet-style podium, play the part!

This answer isn't as simple. I read a ridiculously high volume of Afghanistan-related stories each day, and try to post the most relevant to a point I'm making about my own experiences, or simply the best of the bunch. The ones about life 'downrange', the life of the warrior engaged in regular combat, are simply in tribute to them. The ones about Kabul or the fate of this war are shared because that's what I am engaged in (or at least on the periphery of) on a daily basis: decisions that shape the future of national institutions, and by extension, Afghanistan's future. It's mentally challenging in its own way...though as you've picked up if you've read a few entries, I'm often resentful of being here in relative safety while thousands of Marines, soldiers, sailors and airmen face deadly danger in their missions.

A Defense Ministry press conference in the palatial GMIC.

The fact of the matter is that the vast majority of U.S. and NATO service members here are as safe as I am, and only a relatively small number are clearing mine-ridden farmland, patrolling desolate villages, or convoying across ambush roads. But something a fine officer and simply decent human being said tonight at his farewell dinner gave me pause. Speaking directly of that nagging feeling, he pointed out that by building institutions, we are giving Afghans something they haven't had in over 30 years: hope. "And hope is a whole lot more important than another dead bad guy."

Gen. Azimi takes another round of questions from the press.

And dons the shades for a few more interviews outside.

For my own beat reporting on what was said at the press conference above, please check out the writeup by yours truly (not in the job description these days, but straight journalism is still fun to me).

Afghan army marks growth in numbers, operations

My main man House and I by the Gov't of Afghanistan seal.

And because I simply can't quit this link addiction, here's another...from Time, but highlighting a letter to the Washington Post that has a fairly excellent point. Let's just show the text of it.

"A few days ago we were hearing that peace talks with the Taliban were growing more serious, in part because we were decimating their leadership. Now we're hearing that the Taliban is doing more or less fine, thank you very much.

As one of your readers, what in the world am I supposed to make of an article in yesterday's newspaper claiming that the United States and its allies are kicking the holy crap out of the Taliban, and another article today that claims that, no, actually, U.S. and allied operations are not having much of an effect at all on the Taliban's ability to conduct operations?...
Can you see how this is confusing?... Here's a radical proposition: why don't you direct your reporters to pool their sources, work together, and write an article that highlights the conflicting assessments rather than write two articles taking each set of sources at face value?

Because I shouldn't forget to read the newspaper one day and miss the news that we're winning. Or losing."

Inventory, old school.

The photos earlier of video camera practice show a portion of a training day at the basic Public Affairs Course my team coordinates. It's a surprising venture when you first hear of it: an Afghan media company (of which there are several very good ones) is contracted to provide five weeks of training in everything from photography to story structure to editing a broadcast segment. Our colleagues at the ministries provide as many soldiers, NCOs and officers as they can from the Afghan National Army, the Afghan National Police, the border police, and so on. I like it because it's one of the more tangible examples of something we're actually doing...since so much of the 'heavy lifting' is hard to see, hard to quantify, and hard to explain.

Instruction from a nationally known actor, it turns out.

Video instruction: it ain't sexy, but it pays off.

Chai breaks break up the class day.

(Yes, I wish it was beer in those cups.)

Social time under the barbed wire.

Cascading vines surround each building in this compound.

House and the great Colonel Murad.

AND, JUST FOR THE HELL OF IT... A couple of my favorite shots from the chow hall here at camp.

A large crowd of Afghan employees enjoying...'South Park'.

Some things you can't make up.

"StratCom" (IO), Army-style.

Choose your destiny, soldier. And make the analogy.

Army strong is to a rack of ribbons as death is to a cemetery.

(I think someone needs to re-take his SATs...)

Turkish delight

2010-10-27T15:55:00.003-06:00

Another cloudless sky, another graduation.

Even if you've paid attention some to the news from Afghanistan, you're probably mightily confused. Well, join the club. Still wrapped up in the saga of an impending presidential ban on security companies -- something that would almost certainly shut down a massive portion of the country's development programs and projects -- the capital now is awash in rumors of Russia sending trainers to augment NATO here (which goes over like a lead balloon, as you might imagine).

Afghan color guard at Turkey's Camp Ghazi

When I arrive at the office of my colleagues in the Defense Ministry, I never know what to expect. The other day we watched news coverage of President Karzai's meeting with the President of Tajikistan, and couldn't help but joke to each other about how many sacks of cash were involved (Karzai just copped to receiving payments from both Iran and the U.S. in bags of cash, for which he naturally had a good explanation).

The next thing I know, I was off with the general on our way to a big ceremony at the Turkish camp. A large class of Afghan non-commissioned officers (NCOs) was taking the oath of service, and we had to be there. Well, Azimi had to be there. I, as the fortunate advisor, was merely told by him that "no" wasn't an option. Since it suits me just fine to get out of the Green Zone, I was eagerly on my way.

Table after table is filled with young NCOs ready to take the oath.

And the shouts go up and out for Afghanistan.

(more pics to follow...)

There is a very real correlation that exists between the endless training taking place in Kabul and a few other cities and the life-and-death struggle in the field. If outstanding leaders are identified and empowered here, if units learn to work together as one organ, if basic skills are mastered...then more soldiers, Afghan and Coalition alike, live to fight another day. Although I am far removed from combat here, it is usually a tremendous honor to attend a ceremony such as this one in Camp Ghazi.

Called from the ranks to perform the prayer...

As AfghaniDan's paparazzi follows him everywhere.

You see, all it takes is a war in a place like Afghanistan for the Turks and Greeks to come together! Hellas cool.

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Posted here is a brief but vivid account of life these days for the warriors of 2nd Battalion, 9th Marines. It's worth a few seconds to read about what they go through on a daily basis fighting this war...while we bitch in Kabul if there's a long line to withdraw cash from the ATM at the coffee shop.

"It’s not fun," Gallant said of driving on Marjah’s roads. "It’s waiting to get blown up again for the most part."

Corporal details Marines' hard life in southern Afghanistan

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Below is not the kind of quote you read often, including in most of the stories I've posted here. And yes, it makes me swell with pride in my fellow Jarheads, the ones doing the heavy lifting...

“We have seen the changes here,” Ghulamzoi said. “This time last year, the Taliban was running this area. Since the Marines have come in, we can sleep safely in our homes again.”

Marines, Afghans Come Together for Way Forward in Marjah

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Back in Kabul, the band played on...

...and on.

Bustin' through red smoke with the colors.

And always, the goose step manages to show up.

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I can't help myself tonight...it's addiction to links. But if you have the inclination to read a gritty, heart-stopping account of patrols in Kandahar's vicious Arghandab Valley, please check this one out. It is some excellent reporting by the UK's Daily Mail...

"Still buried somewhere very close to him - and us - was a pressure plate. If someone were to step on it Sgt. McGhee and those near him would have their 'day spoiled' - a laconic phrase used in the platoon to describe catastrophic injury."

"The basic IED is not only a potential war-winner, it is dirt cheap and easy to make."

Dicing with death in the devil's playground: Clearing roadside bombs in the Afghan valley where every step could be your last

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Apple juice and Turkish finger food followed the affair.

Stalin may be long dead and hated here, but he sure is imitated in appearance sometimes.

Grabbing some real food back the Defense Ministry with my pal Colonel Asif (aka Pauly Walnuts)

While Col Paiman looks like he's got a whole feast to himself...

Asif decided that he should gain the weight.

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So after that harrowing read, how about a bit of levity from krazy Kabul. Actual quote follows from the host of what many service members here call "Who Wants to be an (Afghan) Millionaire" but is actually more like "Let's Make a Deal"...only if the prize girls were replaced by the guys from your IT department:

"You really wiped the smile off my face when you lost the one million," Mirzad told him. "Now you've won the lowest prize on this program. Best of luck in the future."

Afghan gameshow brings relief and a chance of cash

Back at work, I coined a new term: Naan de Shark

(and the good eats carried on all day!)

Social Studies

2010-10-24T15:16:00.002-06:00

Afghan and AfghaniDan, celebrating peace

This entry started off as a short current events piece, which is virtually impossible to do when one wishes to give background and context to an Afghan update. So it got a bit longer, as tends to happen with wordy types who never even needed to kiss the Blarney Stone...and I remembered that only on social media did I post the photos from last month's UN International Day of Peace festival in Kabul, which I attended along with Maj. General Azimi and his aide. It was a fairly incredible day, to be commemorating the victims of war and expressing hope for world peace right in the heart of one of the world's most unstable regions. Here are a few of the unforgettable moments, before my lecturin' begins...

Gateway to a war-free zone, next to a banner of Afghanistan's greatest modern war hero.

"Brothers don't shake hands...brothers gotta HUG!"

Now that's a nice start to Peace Day.

Drawing a crowd is easy when you're handing out kites.

Jagran "De Niro" Dawod

All about the peace dove.

The general and his muscle check out the class tent...

As students discuss the terms "peace" and "violence."

Tomb of Nadir Khan, popular kite destination.

And on this day, music destination! The band warms up.

Little man gets a front and center spot for the concert.

While Afghans working for peace schmooze with Azimi.

So, the update I promised, then more happy snaps. In the south (and in the news), there are much-heralded clearing operations taking place in Kandahar province, which indeed seem to be demonstrating a growing capability on the part of the Afghan National Army...as long as one views it with saintly patience. But with a military effort in its tenth year and political considerations at home being what they are, there isn't much stomach for patience from a nation of the "war fatigued", so we hear -- to the extent Americans are aware of the ongoing war at all. What it means for us in HQ land is a frenzy of metrics and measurements, because progress by the NATO Lisbon Conference in November means progress for the U.S. Government review in December, which leads directly to decisions about plans for 2011 and the start of ~~withdrawal~~, ~~transition~~, whatever it is now termed when we begin to reduce forces and turn responsibility directly over to the national security apparatus, nascent though it is. What does all this equal? PRESSURE. Pressure to deliver results, and fast. Which brings us to the increased 'activity' you may have read about recently...

The view from some who've spent long portions of the last decade in Afghanistan is that combat is only truly getting started in the Pashtun belt, which is the swath of the country most amenable to the Taliban and most opposed to U.S./NATO/Coalition presence, and therefore, the government in Kabul. And even that is not as simple as it sounds...because to many in that key population, 'governance' means that soldiers, bureaucrats and politicians from their traditional enemies in the north are there to exploit and control them. They tend to take a softer line toward relations with Pakistan in the south and east, and family and tribe alone account for much of that. It's in these regions that the closely-watched reintegration (swaying insurgents to switch sides) and reconciliation (peace deals) programs will succeed or fail in their respective goals...goals that are seen as crucial to any potential end of conflict. And that's only one rudimentary explanation of one corner of the tangled web that is weaved here.

Of course in other parts of the country, sympathies can be found with other regional 'actors': Iran (west), Turkmenistan (northwest), Uzbekistan (north), Tajikistan (northeast)...and India, which allies in some form with any or all of the above as it plays Afghanistan as its proxy in the endless bloody dispute with Pakistan. These subplots are all manifested in some way here in the capital, plus the significant involvement of the always-squeezed and oft-subjugated Hazara, likely descendants of the Mongols who have occupied much of the country's central regions for many centuries. Mix it all together and you get a sense of why I actually felt relief after the much-maligned election day last month (three days before these photos), rather than disappointment...there were many attacks, there was widespread fraud, but the nation didn't fall apart.

View of Kabul from the hill top.

"So General, when is it OUR turn?"

This young talent got the best interview of the day.

"And now it's time...for the Feats of Strength!"

The kids left out of festivities probed for a break-in opportunity...

(Check out the guy bolting into view from the left!)

And found great success. Hallelujah, the floodgates opened!

Waving the flag of peace with schoolchildren...

As a thousand balloons are released into the azure sky.

I thought this a cool scene...peace balloons and Massoud.

Normalcy, even relatively, is a beautiful thing.

I got snagged for an interview of my own that day.

And I'm pretty sure the rust showed through.

Ah well, who follows the Associated Press, anyway?

Speaking of AP, two quotes from this recent story grabbed me...the first is a common refrain even in Kabul. I've heard it numerous times as an excuse. The second is just hard to argue. And it's the immediate thought that comes to mind each time I hear that a clearing operation is going faster than expected.

"They always ask us, 'why do you need our help anyway? You're the ones with the guns ... you have the planes, you have the helicopters,'" Martin said.

Today, U.S. troops are knee-deep in a classic guerrilla war, in what sometimes seems to be an endless turf battle against an often-invisible enemy that fights one minute, pretends to farm the next.

AP: In Afghan Town, Insurgents Vanish After Battles

In my own (albeit limited) operational experience in eastern Afghanistan, an absence of enemy fighters means that they have left, to safer locales for the time being or across the border for a longer stay, with perhaps some staying behind to play the part of the neutral local. Time is on the side of those who look to wait out our involvement, obviously...and so the keys to success are nothing short of capable and proficient Afghan government, economy, military, local security, etc. But remember, it's NOT nation building!

Somehow the guy on the left is the "Advisor"

It was a good day. Hoping once again for more of them.

Up the Ghar

2010-10-17T15:18:00.005-06:00

First light, after climbing in darkness the first few minutes...

It turns out that even here in the (prison-) camp confines of Kabul, there are ways to climb mountains. Well, one mountain, anyway. All you need to do is forgo the only sleep-in morning of the week, pull together a convoy (minimum two-vehicle movement, minimum two armed service members in each vehicle), get on the road before 4:30 am, and make sure that someone can navigate you to the trailhead through the vast military training area you must traverse to reach it. Only then are you set...and in the end, very fortunate to start your day in such a way.

More first light: A craggy silhouette looms as the grade increases...

Vertical! No, wait...Vertigo!

Colorado? Utah? Mexico? Nope...Kabul.

Fellow Devil Dogs take their turn in one photo op spot...

I pose in another, breaking in a new boonie lid.

Loose-foot rock is routine when heading up Mt. Ghar.

As sunrise neared, more figures could be seen on the highest ridge.

Allllllllllllmost there...!

A pause to watch the sun appear.

It didn't take long -- only a few minutes of rising angle, in fact -- before we knew what we were in for. My first mountain climb in Afghanistan since 2006 didn't feel so hot for a while. Actually, it felt plenty hot, and that was part of the problem. But the body's cooling system works magnificently sometimes, and I was soon drenched in sweat, which works effectively in early morning high-altitude air (it helped to carry some hydration along...a surprising number of climbers skipped that day in survival class, I guess). My lungs became grateful as the trapped dust and humidity of the city became less and less of a factor in breathing. Overall, it became exhilarating as the valley floor fell away below, and the air got crisper and cooler in that moment just before sun up. And then, to see it from such a vantage point...for someone who hates getting up before he has to (that's right -- even military life never stood a chance of changing my night owl habits), it was a spiritually brilliant moment.

And there it is, nicely finding the nook designed perfectly for its appearance.

With Lindsay, my fellow PAO and mountain enthusiast.

My favorite...the point in any climb when all four monkey limbs are consistently required!

From whence we came was starting to look very far down by now.

The scene at the top looked a lot like lemmings heading for their chance to jump -- but I couldn't wait to get up there, anyway.

Self-styled master of the range.
Finally, the top ridge has been crested.

Looking north over a massive training ground, ringed in like everything else here by peaks...

The north side drop-off is even steeper than our trail.

Flag #1: A Scottish signal unit celebrates its climb of the ridge.

Slanted, sharp shards (of shale?) extend towards the real summit as the sun climbs the sky beyond. The geology is fascinating here, even for a science-challenged guy like me.

The small saddle got increasingly crowded with climbers by 7am.

Not for the faint of heart: traversing towards the summit.

But it's so worth it to plant your boots on either side of the jagged edge and take in a sight like this!

At the top, and feeling so fortunate to be there.

Flag #2: Unfurling one Old Glory that I brought up...

Flag #3: New Afghan friends asked if they could join in the fun.

Ah, pocket-sized flags! That's the way to go!

Sun now drenching (and drying) us, it was a hard spot to leave. If not for the mandatory evacuation of the range by 8am -- they've got to start firing, you know -- I'd have stayed for hours.

Flag #4: Bayern! My friends work with police mentors at EUPOL.

The Four Toppers.

Linds deliberately chooses footing on the way back over...

And finds an unusual perch when I call for incessant photos.

This soldier clambered well down the slope to retrieve an old sign:

"OFF LIMITS TO ALL U.S. PERSONNEL BY ORDER OF THE (COMMANDER). DANGEROUS AND UNSTABLE AREA AHEAD. OFF LIMITS TO ALL U.S. PERSONNEL."

I'm damn glad the bosses changed their minds on this one, at least!

My roommate plays Canuck King of the Mountain, while 2 paparazzi snap away.

All it took after five months of a shared room was a mountain climb to get us in the same frame. It's a wonder he even speaks to me.

I don't think this is the "Descending" my Black Crowes were singing about, but it worked well as a tune in my head then, anyway.

Picking our way through the crags, surfing on loose rock...

This was key terrain during the battles for Kabul during the civil war period of 1992-96.

One last look at purple mountains across the horizon.

Just bring up a few cases, some stogies, and I'll camp out here for the next couple months.

Staff Sgt. Martinez tries running the loose stone wall gauntlet.

It looked like a regular patrol coming down behind me --
and for a minute I thought I was at war.

Although my throbbing knee and bloody toes welcomed the flattening, I wanted badly to turn around and head right back up for a second round. Another time...

The "PA & Friends" posse.

For a thorough examination of the current training picture -- much of which goes on in the area seen so many times from above in this post's photos -- and how it translates to the operational fight downrange, I recommend this story. Chris Chivers has earned respect from many in the field for his relentless reporting and knowledge of areas he covers as much as he has from his own service in the Marines.

Gains in Afghan Training, but Struggles in War

And PEACE to you too, Combat Mercedes!